As August draws to a close, signaling the imminent transition from summer to autumn for many in the Northern Hemisphere, the world of horology continues to present a compelling array of vintage and collectible timepieces. This week’s “What’s Selling Where” column from Hodinkee highlights several exceptional pieces, ranging from the historically significant to the aesthetically unique, offering collectors a diverse selection of potential acquisitions. The curated list features a remarkable Alpina-Gruen Techni-Quadron, a coveted Universal Genève “Eric Clapton” reference, and an exceptionally rare Cartier “Bébé Guillotine” shutter watch, among other noteworthy finds.
The Shifting Tides of the Watch Market
The mid-August period often sees a subtle shift in the watch market, as collectors return from summer holidays and the anticipation for autumn auctions and new releases begins to build. This week’s report reflects this dynamic, with some previously featured watches finding new owners while others remain available, presenting ongoing opportunities. For instance, the Zodiac Poor Man’s Heuer has concluded its sales period, and the Seiko 7018 has also passed. However, the JLC Master Calendar Meteorite and the Patek Philippe 5000R are still on the market, indicating potential for further negotiation or a continued search by interested parties. The availability of such significant pieces underscores the constant flux and opportunity present in the secondary watch market.
Spotlight on Exceptional Vintage Finds
Alpina-Gruen Techni-Quadron: An Art Deco Masterpiece
The Alpina-Gruen Techni-Quadron stands out as a testament to early 20th-century watchmaking ingenuity and design. Estimated to be nearly a century old, this particular example, available from Collectors Corner NY for $6,300, defies its age with a remarkably preserved silver case and an impeccably clean dial. The watch measures a compact 20mm in width and 43mm from lug to lug, dimensions that, while modest by today’s standards, do not detract from its profound visual appeal. The case retains clear markings on its caseback, and the elegant, softened lines of the lugs contribute to its overall vintage charm. The dial, a focal point of the watch’s design, is described as exceptionally executed, serving as a benchmark for contemporary watch designers. Its enduring beauty and historical significance make it a compelling acquisition for collectors of Art Deco timepieces.
The history of the Alpina-Gruen collaboration is rooted in the early 20th century, a period of significant innovation in watchmaking. Alpina, founded in 1883, and Gruen, established in 1894, were both respected manufacturers. Their joint venture, particularly with models like the Techni-Quadron, aimed to leverage their respective expertise to create sophisticated and stylish timepieces. The Techni-Quadron line, often characterized by its distinctive case shapes and robust movements, represented a peak of their collaborative efforts in the realm of avant-garde design. This specific model’s condition, given its age, suggests meticulous care by previous owners or perhaps a fortunate preservation, making it a rare find in today’s market.
Universal Genève "Eric Clapton" Ref 881101/01: A Celebrity Connection
The Universal Genève "Eric Clapton" Ref 881101/01, available on Shop Goodwill for a current bid of $4,445 (with the auction ending soon), offers a unique blend of horological appeal and cultural significance. The connection to the legendary guitarist Eric Clapton adds a layer of desirability, harkening back to a time when celebrities’ watch choices were beginning to gain wider recognition. The photograph of Clapton with Jimi Hendrix, both sporting distinctive timepieces, serves as a powerful visual testament to the era’s burgeoning watch culture among musicians.
This particular Universal Genève model appears to be in remarkable condition, with its dial and hands noted as original and not relumed. The bezel and signed crown are also original, and while the case shows signs of wear consistent with its age, the lyre lugs remain in good shape, and the caseback retains legible reference and serial numbers. The watch’s overall aesthetic is highly appealing, making it a prime candidate for restoration and resale by a dealer or auction house. Its presence on a platform like Shop Goodwill underscores the serendipitous discoveries that can be made in the vintage watch market, where exceptional pieces can surface in unexpected places.
Universal Genève, a brand with a rich history dating back to 1894, was renowned for producing high-quality watches, particularly chronographs and complicated pieces. The association with Eric Clapton, a prominent figure in music and a known watch enthusiast, has undoubtedly elevated the profile of certain Universal Genève models. The Ref 881101/01, in particular, has become a sought-after reference among collectors who appreciate both the brand’s heritage and its connection to pop culture icons. The condition described suggests that this watch has been preserved with care, making it a valuable opportunity for collectors.
Cartier "Bébé Guillotine" Shutter Watch: Historical Ingenuity
The Cartier "Bébé Guillotine" shutter watch, offered by Menta Watches for $175,000, represents a fascinating chapter in horological innovation and design. This 1930s rectangular watch, measuring 20.5mm wide and 37mm lug-to-lug, features a groundbreaking shutter system designed to protect its crystal and dial. The background of this mechanism lies in early 20th-century efforts to safeguard watch components. Developed by Edmond Jaeger, the shutter system was primarily used for ladies’ pendant watches, but Cartier commissioned 50 wristwatches equipped with this feature, logging them in their records as "Bracelet-Montre Bébé Guillotine."
This specific example is described as being in exceptional condition, with an 18k gold case that is phenomenal and a clean dial. The historical significance of this watch is immense, representing a rare and ingenious solution to a practical problem of the era. Cartier’s willingness to integrate such a complex mechanism into its wristwatch offerings speaks volumes about the brand’s commitment to innovation and luxury. The price, while substantial, is not surprising given the watch’s rarity, precious metal construction, historical importance, and the powerful allure of the Cartier brand. The recent sale of a similar example by Sotheby’s for 166,399 CHF further validates its market value and desirability among serious collectors. The "Bébé Guillotine" is more than just a watch; it’s a piece of mechanical art with a captivating story.
The development of protective mechanisms for watch crystals was a significant area of exploration in the early 20th century. The JLC Reverso, introduced in 1931, is perhaps the most famous example of a watch designed with a protective feature, allowing the case to be flipped over. However, the shutter system employed by Jaeger and utilized by Cartier offered a different, more intricate approach. The "guillotine" moniker likely refers to the sliding or descending motion of the shutter mechanism, which covers and protects the dial. The limited production of these watches by Cartier ensures their extreme rarity and high desirability among collectors seeking unique and historically significant timepieces.
Military Monopushers: A Choice of Heritage
Lemania British Royal Air Force Monopusher: A Worn Icon
The Lemania British Royal Air Force (RAF) Monopusher, available through The Saleroom with an estimated auction price of 2,000-3,000 GBP, embodies the rugged functionality of military-issued timepieces. This particular example is identified as a Series 3, characterized by its asymmetric case. While the watch shows considerable wear, consistent with its operational history, the steel case appears unpolished, preserving its original character. The lume on the hour and minute hands shows degradation, a common occurrence in watches of this age that have been actively used. However, the historical significance of these issued watches is undeniable. The author’s perspective suggests that military watches are meant to be worn and bear the marks of their service, contrasting sharply with the idea of a “babied” military watch. This philosophy resonates with collectors who value authenticity and provenance over pristine, untouched condition.
The history of monopushers in military contexts is substantial. Prior to a change in the British Defense Standard in 1970, which allowed for chronographs with either one or two pushers, all British military chronographs were monopushers. This means that the start, stop, and reset functions were all controlled by a single pusher, a design that demands a different operational approach compared to bi-pusher chronographs. The Lemania cal 2220 movement, likely powering this watch and the RAN counterpart, is a respected column-wheel chronograph movement known for its robustness and precision. The aesthetic appeal of these watches, with their large luminous numerals and functional dials, further enhances their desirability.
Lemania RAN HS9 Monopusher: The White-Dial Counterpart
For those who prefer a white dial, Craft and Tailored offers a Lemania RAN (Royal Australian Navy) HS9 Monopusher, a Series 2 model, for $8,500. This watch shares many characteristics with its RAF counterpart, including the likely presence of a Lemania cal 2220 movement. The RAN monopusher features a symmetric case and a dial marked with "RAN," indicating its specific military issuance. Unlike the RAF version, this example exhibits less wear, suggesting a potentially more preserved condition. The dial design is a near mirror image of the RAF watch, with the primary distinctions being the fonts used and the absence of a "circle T" indicating tritium lume on the RAN model. The contrast between the black and white dial variants offers collectors a distinct choice, catering to different aesthetic preferences while offering similar historical significance.
The Royal Australian Navy’s use of specialized chronographs highlights the global reach of military watch procurement and the importance of reliable timekeeping for naval operations. The HS9 designation typically refers to a specific model within the Lemania lineup used by various naval forces. The condition of the RAN watch, as described, suggests it may have been preserved in better condition, perhaps due to different service environments or less intensive use compared to its RAF counterpart. The availability of both the black and white dial versions within the same week provides a unique opportunity for collectors to compare and contrast these historically important military timepieces.
Conclusion: A Week of Notable Horological Discoveries
This week’s "What’s Selling Where" roundup from Hodinkee presents a compelling narrative of the vintage watch market. From the enduring elegance of Art Deco designs like the Alpina-Gruen Techni-Quadron and the innovative protection of the Cartier "Bébé Guillotine," to the historically charged military monopushers and the celebrity-endorsed Universal Genève, there is a rich tapestry of timepieces to explore. Each watch tells a story, not just of its own creation and function, but also of the eras and individuals that shaped its journey. For collectors, these pieces represent not merely objects of value, but tangible connections to history, design, and culture. The ongoing availability of such diverse and significant watches underscores the vibrant and ever-evolving nature of the collectible watch world.
