The Fears Watch Company, a storied name in British horology with roots stretching back to 1846, has announced a pivotal moment in its modern history with the release of the Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar. This sophisticated timepiece signifies the brand’s ambitious expansion into the realm of complex mechanical complications, a departure from its recent focus on elegant, time-only or simpler mechanical watches. The launch coincides with the 10th anniversary of the brand’s revival in 2016 by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the sixth-generation descendant of the original founder, Edwin Fear.
A Heritage Reborn, A Future Embracing Complexity
Founded by Edwin Fear in Bristol in 1846, the original Fears Watch Company enjoyed a remarkable 130-year run before ceasing operations in 1976. Its legacy was revived a decade ago by Bowman-Scargill, who has since steered the brand with a clear vision: to champion British watchmaking by producing distinctive, elegantly designed timepieces. Historically, Fears has been celebrated for its refined aesthetics and relatively straightforward mechanical movements, often featuring time-only displays, but occasionally venturing into more intricate territory with collaborations like the one with Garrick or specialized pieces such as the jumping hour models.
The introduction of the Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar marks a significant evolution, demonstrating the brand’s growing technical prowess and its commitment to offering collectors a more comprehensive horological experience. This new complication represents not just an addition to the Fears collection but a statement of intent for the brand’s future direction.
The Brunswick Name: A Nod to Bristolian Roots
The new perpetual calendar model draws its name from Brunswick Square in Bristol, a location of historical significance for the company. From 1920 to 1942, this square served as the base for Fears’ export warehouse, underscoring the brand’s historical connection to its city of origin. The Brunswick collection itself has become a recognisable hallmark of the modern Fears brand, characterized by its distinctive cushion-shaped case.
The Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar maintains the collection’s signature aesthetic while integrating a new level of mechanical complexity. The watch features a comfortably sized 39mm case, measuring a compact 45.4mm from lug to lug. Notably, it is the thinnest model in the Brunswick line, with a slim profile of just 9.4mm. The case’s elegance is achieved through a harmonious blend of brushed and polished surfaces, accented by polished bevels and an inviting onion-shaped crown. Both the bezel and the open display case back possess a concave profile, and the case flanks discreetly house the correctors for the perpetual calendar functions, a subtle indicator of the sophisticated movement within. With a water resistance rating of 50 meters, the watch offers adequate protection for a complex dress timepiece.
A Dial of Refined Complexity and Bespoke Detail
The dial of the Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar is a testament to Fears’ commitment to meticulous craftsmanship and aesthetic refinement. Beyond its role in displaying a substantial number of indications, the dial has been a focal point of design innovation. It features a softly frosted surface with a "Silver Mink" tone, achieved through a coating of pure silver. This creates a subtle depth and luminosity that enhances the legibility of the various functions.
The large sub-dials, which house the date, weekday, month, and leap year indications, are a particular highlight. They are distinguished by circular grooves and a newly designed set of curved numerals and letters, developed in-house to perfectly complement the curvature of the sub-dials. This bespoke detailing ensures a harmonious and integrated look. The hours are marked by quad-bevelled, diamond-polished, and hand-applied indices, which are coated in black gold to echo the finish of the tri-bevelled hour and minute hands.
The moon phase indication, a classic feature of perpetual calendars, has also received exceptional attention. It comprises a black lacquer disc inset with two silver moons, each meticulously hand-finished with a technique known as Charbonage. This level of detail underscores Fears’ dedication to traditional artisanal techniques, even when employing modern complications. The overall dial layout is classic for a perpetual calendar, ensuring that the wealth of information is presented in a clear and accessible manner.
The Mechanical Heart: A Symbiosis of Proven Excellence
The intricate functionality of the Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar is powered by a robust and reliable mechanical movement. At its core lies a Sellita SW300 base movement, a well-regarded clone of the ETA 2892, renowned for its thinness and accuracy. This is augmented by a Dubois Dépraz perpetual calendar module, a specialist in creating sophisticated complications that are integrated seamlessly with base movements.
The base Sellita SW300 movement has been treated to an elevated level of finishing by Fears. Its bridges and plates are frosted, and the edges feature polished bevels, all finished with a dark rhodium treatment. The winding mechanism is driven by a custom 18k gold rotor, adding a touch of luxury and enhancing the overall aesthetic appeal visible through the sapphire case back. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of approximately 47 hours. This combination of a proven base movement and a respected complication module ensures both performance and longevity.
The Eminence Collection and Bespoke Possibilities
The Fears Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar joins the existing Fears Garrick within the prestigious Eminence Collection, a designation that signifies the brand’s most intricate and significant timepieces. The watch is presented on a rich walnut brown matte Ostrich leg strap, complemented by a Fears Blue Alcantara lining, offering a luxurious and comfortable wearing experience.
As part of the package, buyers will also receive a custom watch winder manufactured by SwissKubik, finished in a distinctive Fears Blue aluminium. This thoughtful inclusion ensures that the perpetual calendar movement can be kept wound and ready for use when the watch is not being worn. The Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar is released as a non-limited edition, though each piece will be numbered, allowing for individual recognition within the broader production.
The pricing reflects the complexity and craftsmanship involved. For the domestic UK market, the watch is priced at GBP 26,950 (inclusive of tax). For export markets, the price is CHF 24,500 or USD 28,500 (both exclusive of taxes). Fears also offers bespoke versions of the Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar, available exclusively in platinum, through consultation with their Custom Division, catering to clients seeking a truly unique timepiece.
Broader Implications for British Horology
The introduction of a perpetual calendar by Fears is a significant development not only for the brand but also for the broader landscape of British watchmaking. It demonstrates a growing ambition among British independent watchmakers to compete in the higher echelons of horological complication. For years, British brands have been re-establishing themselves, often focusing on accessible luxury and distinctive design. The success of models like the Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar could pave the way for further innovation and a more diverse range of complex timepieces emerging from the UK.
This move by Fears can be seen as a strategic response to a maturing market that increasingly appreciates mechanical complexity alongside traditional craftsmanship and heritage. By successfully integrating a Dubois Dépraz module onto a Sellita base, Fears has showcased an ability to leverage established, high-quality components while infusing them with their own design philosophy and finishing standards. This approach allows for the creation of sophisticated watches without the prohibitive costs associated with entirely in-house developed perpetual calendar movements, making such complications more accessible to a wider audience of collectors.
The emphasis on bespoke options and the availability of platinum versions further signals Fears’ commitment to serving a discerning clientele who value individuality and exclusivity. As the brand continues to celebrate its centenary of revival, this perpetual calendar stands as a powerful symbol of its renewed dynamism and its dedication to pushing the boundaries of what British watchmaking can achieve.
Technical Specifications
Case:
- 39mm x 37mm cushion-shaped
- 45.4mm lug-to-lug
- 9.4mm thickness
- Stainless steel, brushed and polished finishes
- Domed sapphire crystal
- Sapphire caseback
- 50m water-resistant
Dial:
- Silver Mink tone
- Frosted surface, coated in warm pure silver with black printing
- Sub-dials with circular grooves and black and cyan blue printing
- Applied indices, diamond-polished and black gold-plated
- Black lacquer disc with two silver moons finished by hand with Charbonage
- Diamond-polished and black gold-plated hands
Movement:
- Sellita SW300 base with Dubois Dépraz module
- Automatic winding
- 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
- 47-hour power reserve
- Finished with frosted surfaces, polished bevels, and 18k gold winding rotor
- Functions: Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar with date, weekday, month, and leap year, moon phase
Strap:
- Walnut Brown matte Ostrich leg with Fears Blue Alcantara lining
Availability:
- Non-limited numbered edition
Accessory:
- Custom Fears watch winder finished in Fears Blue aluminium
Price:
- GBP 26,950 (incl. tax)
- CHF 24,500 (excl. tax)
- USD 28,500 (excl. tax)
For further details, please visit the official Fears Watches website at fearswatches.com.
