While it may be the smallest, slimmest, and ultimately most wearable timepiece to hail from MB&F, the Special Project One carries its three-dimensional genetic heritage with pride. Launched last year, the SP One belongs to MB&F’s Special Projects line, a repository of dormant projects sketched over the years that might or might not see the light of day. Max Büsser’s "Three Circles" sketch of 2018, composed of three floating elements, was eventually dusted off and developed with designer Eric Giroud to become the inaugural SP One model. Today, MB&F introduces a glamorous yet serene diamond-set version: the SP One Pavé.
The Genesis of a Special Project: From Sketch to Serenity
The genesis of the MB&F SP One is rooted in a hypothetical question that often sparks the brand’s most innovative creations: what would an elegant, classical, and highly unexpected watch look like interpreted through MB&F’s distinctive codes? This thought experiment, initially captured in a simple sketch by founder Max Büsser in 2018, laid the foundation for what would become the SP One. The "Three Circles" concept depicted three distinct elements – the barrel, the balance wheel, and the dial – seemingly levitating in mid-air, a testament to Büsser’s penchant for deconstructing and reimagining traditional watchmaking.
The opportune moment for this dormant project to emerge arrived during the unexpected downtime afforded by the global pandemic. MB&F’s dedicated team, known for its relentless pursuit of horological artistry, took this period to meticulously review a backlog of shelved concepts. Among the more avant-garde designs, such as those for skateboards and razors, lay Büsser’s intriguing "Three Circles" sketch. This rough yet evocative drawing was then entrusted to long-time collaborator and renowned designer Eric Giroud. Giroud, known for his ability to translate complex ideas into elegant forms, refined and reworked Büsser’s initial concept, imbuing it with the sophisticated aesthetic that would define the SP One. The collaborative effort didn’t stop there; the refined designs were subsequently passed to MB&F’s skilled engineers, who brought the conceptual marvel to life through intricate mechanical engineering.
The SP One Pavé: A Dazzling Interpretation
The second chapter in the SP One narrative, the SP One Pavé, builds upon the architectural brilliance of its predecessor while introducing a new dimension of opulence. This latest iteration retains the signature elegant, gravity-defying display that captivated enthusiasts, but now highlights the watch’s inherent architecture with the captivating sparkle of diamonds. Crucially, the SP One Pavé artfully sidesteps the trap of ostentatious bling, instead opting for a tasteful, almost subtle, application of precious stones.
A total of 255 meticulously selected diamonds are employed to enhance the fluid curves of the case and to artfully surround the floating movement with an ethereal glow. The diamonds are set using the pavé technique, where stones are placed closely together to create a smooth, seamless surface. This meticulous application is particularly evident along the curved flange and the flanks of the case, resulting in an unobtrusive yet undeniably luxurious paved effect.
Design and Craftsmanship: A Symphony of White Gold and Diamonds
The SP One Pavé presents a striking visual paradox: its rounded, 38mm white gold case, reminiscent of a smooth, pebble-like UFO, belies the intricate mechanical complexity housed within. A key design challenge for MB&F was the absence of a traditional bezel, a common canvas for diamond setting. In response, the brand ingeniously shifted the focus to the internal flange. This area, described as an "amphitheatre," is adorned with 55 brilliant-cut diamonds. These stones are precisely set to frame the floating mechanical architecture, bathing the intricate display with a gentle, captivating sparkle.
Further enhancing the watch’s rotundity, a double row of 165 pavé-set diamonds graces the sides of the case. These luminous accents accentuate the case’s organic form, drawing the eye towards the mechanical heart of the timepiece. An additional 14 diamonds are strategically placed to highlight the crown, positioned unconventionally at the 10 o’clock mark. The attention to detail extends to the accompanying white gold pin buckle, which also features a double row of 21 diamonds, ensuring a harmonious and dazzling presentation from every angle.
The Illusion of Levitation: A Mechanical Marvel
Encased beneath an ultra-domed sapphire crystal, which contributes to the watch’s 12mm height, the SP One Pavé masterfully creates the illusion of suspended mechanical elements. This seemingly effortless levitation is achieved through a clever arrangement of the watch’s three core components:
- The Balance Wheel: Located at the 2 o’clock position, this oversized 2.5Hz balance wheel oscillates with a captivating rhythm. Its prominent presence is a key visual anchor within the floating display.
- The Mainspring Barrel: Positioned at 10 o’clock, this skeletonized single mainspring barrel not only contributes to the visual balance but also serves as an indicator of the watch’s impressive 72-hour power reserve. The intricate gearing visible through its openwork structure adds another layer of mechanical fascination.
- The Time Display: The time itself is presented on a subtly tilted sub-dial located at the 6 o’clock position. This thoughtful orientation ensures legibility while maintaining the overall aesthetic harmony of the suspended elements.
The new diamond-set version of the SP One Pavé features a sophisticated dark blue background for the dial, which serves as a perfect counterpoint to the polished indices and openworked hands. This combination creates a sense of depth and visual intrigue, further enhancing the perceived separation of the mechanical components.
The Unseen Engineering: A Glimpse Behind the Curtain
While the dial-side presentation of the SP One Pavé is designed to mesmerize, the true ingenuity lies within its meticulously engineered movement. The caseback offers a clear view of the mechanics that power the seemingly weightless displays. The manual-winding movement is characterized by its distinctive Y-shaped bridge layout, a design choice that not only contributes to the aesthetic appeal but also facilitates the intricate gear train and conical gearing responsible for the captivating dial-side show.
MB&F’s commitment to finishing excellence is evident in every detail of the movement. Components are meticulously finished with hand-angled wheels, bevelled and polished angles, and prominent gold chatons. The bridges are treated with a sophisticated rhodium finish, complementing the contemporary micro-blasted surfaces of the movement. This dedication to haute horlogerie finishing ensures that the SP One Pavé is as impressive to the discerning eye of a watchmaker as it is to the casual observer.
Strap and Availability: The Final Touches
Complementing the exquisite white gold and diamond construction, the MB&F SP One Pavé is secured to the wrist by a refined light-blue calfskin strap. The strap is attached via hand-polished lugs, which feature brushed tips, adding a subtle textural contrast to the polished case. This carefully chosen strap color provides a fresh and elegant aesthetic, harmonizing with the cool tones of the white gold and diamonds.
The MB&F SP One Pavé is a testament to the brand’s ability to push the boundaries of traditional watchmaking while remaining true to its avant-garde spirit. Its introduction signifies a new chapter for the Special Projects line, demonstrating the enduring appeal of well-conceived dormant ideas.
The MB&F SP One Pavé retails for CHF 78,000 or EUR 85,000 (excluding taxes). Further details and inquiries can be directed to the official MB&F website at mbandf.com. This exquisite timepiece is not merely a watch; it is a statement of artistic vision and horological mastery, a luminous evolution of MB&F’s celebrated legacy.
