Hajime Asaoka, a revered name in the world of haute horlogerie, has carved a niche for himself with his exquisitely crafted, bespoke timepieces. Acknowledging that his singular creations often reside in the realm of unattainable luxury for many, Asaoka established Kurono Tokyo. This independent brand serves as a conduit, offering more accessible watches that, while powered by reliable Seiko or Miyota movements, are imbued with the distinct essence of Japanese design and craftsmanship. The brand’s meteoric success, however, has meant that its watches, much like collector’s items, vanish from availability in mere minutes. This was notably the case with the Tokyo Grand Jubilee Calendar, a triple calendar complication unveiled in 2025 to commemorate Asaoka’s 60th birthday, which sold out instantaneously upon its release. Now, Asaoka is set to unveil a new iteration of this highly sought-after calendar watch, featuring a captivating Saxe blue dial. This release, however, comes with a caveat: it is designated as a "Small Batch Release" (SBR), signifying a production run significantly smaller than usual, further intensifying its exclusivity.
A Legacy of Precision and Accessibility
The genesis of Kurono Tokyo lies in Hajime Asaoka’s desire to share his horological vision with a broader audience. His personal workshop, Hajime Asaoka Watchmaking, produces a limited number of highly intricate and artistic timepieces, often featuring complex complications and artisanal finishes like urushi lacquer dials. These watches represent the pinnacle of his individual artistry and are, by necessity, produced in extremely limited quantities, commanding prices that reflect their bespoke nature and the immense skill involved.
Kurono Tokyo, in contrast, aims to democratize access to Asaoka’s design philosophy. While the movements are sourced from established Japanese manufacturers like Miyota and Seiko, the design, finishing, and overall execution bear the unmistakable hallmark of Asaoka’s meticulous attention to detail and his deep appreciation for Japanese aesthetics. The brand’s portfolio showcases a diverse range of styles, from robust chronographs and capable dive watches to elegant three-handers and unique pieces adorned with traditional urushi dials. Each release has been met with fervent anticipation and swift sell-outs, a testament to the brand’s growing reputation and the discerning taste of its clientele.
The Jubilee Calendar: A Milestone Achieved
The 2025 Tokyo Grand Jubilee Calendar was a significant release, not only for its horological merit but also as a tribute to Hajime Asaoka’s six decades of life. This model evolved from the brand’s earlier Calendrier Type 1, presenting a more complex triple calendar complication. Its most striking feature was the salmon-pink dial, distinguished by a central decoration that evoked the intricate patterns of vertical guilloché. Powered by a dependable Miyota automatic movement, the watch struck a chord with collectors, blending functional complication with refined aesthetics. Its instant sell-out underscored the demand for well-executed calendar watches from a brand with such a strong design pedigree.
The Saxe Blue Passion Project: A Personal Vision
The impetus behind the new Calendrier SBR in Saxe blue is rooted in both practical considerations and a personal artistic drive. Asaoka explains his motivation: "I could never quite get the Saxe blue out of my mind. So, purely as a personal passion project, I decided to revisit the idea." This personal connection imbues the SBR with an added layer of significance, representing a direct artistic indulgence from the master watchmaker himself. The project also leverages unallocated movements and components, a strategic approach that allows for the creation of these special editions without compromising the production of core models.
Design Evolution and Refinements
While sharing the fundamental layout and the reliable Miyota 9122 automatic movement with its anniversary predecessor, the new Saxe Blue Calendrier SBR introduces subtle yet significant design enhancements. The case, crafted from polished 316L stainless steel, measures a refined 38mm in diameter and a comparatively slim 11.5mm thickness (a mere 10mm without the distinctive box-shaped sapphire crystal). This elegant profile ensures comfortable wearability and a sophisticated presence on the wrist. A key distinction from the anniversary edition is the crown, which on the SBR is flat and lacks the cabochon detail, offering a cleaner, more understated aesthetic.
The dial is where the Saxe blue variant truly shines. The matte blue surface is adorned with vertical guilloché-inspired lines precisely stamped across the center, a technique that subtly references the hand-guilloché work found in Asaoka’s more exclusive tourbillon creations. This intricate texture provides a captivating backdrop for the dial’s functional elements. The two recessed sub-dials, displaying the day of the week and the month, along with the stepped date window positioned at 6 o’clock, feature a smooth, contrasting finish that enhances legibility and adds depth. The wide chapter ring, which encircles the dial, maintains this smooth surface, creating a harmonious visual flow.
A notable upgrade is found on the peripheral chapter ring, now featuring applied Arabic indices. These are not mere stamped elements; their intricate shapes are rendered through electroforming, a process that allows for exceptional precision and detail. The gleaming chrome indices catch the light beautifully, adding a touch of luxury and refinement. The pursuit of the perfect Saxe blue hue involved extensive experimentation with countless samples, demonstrating the brand’s commitment to achieving the desired aesthetic. Similar to the distinct icy blue "Shiraai" tone of the Jubilee Sensu model, the Saxe blue dial is finished with a higher gloss, specifically chosen to complement the radiant applied indices. The hour and minute hands are also polished to a high sheen, are domed, and feature a subtle, elegant bend at their tips, designed to enhance visibility and contribute to the overall aesthetic harmony.
Technical Prowess and Powertrain
At the heart of the Kurono Tokyo Calendrier SBR beats the Miyota 9122 automatic movement. This robust and reliable caliber operates at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and offers a practical power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The movement is meticulously finished to meet Kurono Tokyo’s exacting standards, ensuring both performance and reliability. The watch displays hours, minutes, and seconds, complemented by the triple calendar complication, which includes the date, day of the week, and month. This functional suite of complications is expertly integrated into the dial, maintaining legibility and aesthetic balance.
The watch is presented on an elegant 20/16mm black calfskin leather strap, secured by a classic steel pin buckle. This choice of strap complements the refined nature of the watch, offering comfort and a sophisticated finish. The water resistance is rated at 50 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear and minor splashes, though not intended for diving.
Limited Availability and Strategic Release
The Kurono Tokyo Calendrier SBR is positioned as a highly exclusive offering. Production numbers have not been explicitly stated, but the designation "Small Batch Release" and the single-watch purchase limit per customer strongly indicate a very limited quantity. This strategy is consistent with Kurono Tokyo’s model of creating desirable, hard-to-acquire pieces that generate significant collector interest.
The watch is priced at USD 2,380 (excluding VAT). Online sales commenced on Thursday, September 24th, at 11:00 PM Japan Standard Time (JST) via the official Kurono Tokyo website, kuronotokyo.com. A prerequisite for purchase is the creation of a Kurono Tokyo account, which is free to register. This measure helps to streamline the sales process and manage demand. Deliveries are slated to begin in October. Prior to the online launch, the brand offered a preview of the watch from September 16th to September 24th at its salons in Aoyama, Tokyo, and Shanghai, allowing potential buyers to experience the timepiece firsthand.
Analysis of Implications
The introduction of the Saxe Blue Calendrier SBR as a "Small Batch Release" has several implications for the watch market and for Kurono Tokyo as a brand. Firstly, it reinforces the brand’s strategy of creating scarcity and desirability. By limiting production, Kurono Tokyo ensures that its releases remain highly sought after, contributing to a strong secondary market and maintaining brand prestige. Secondly, this approach allows Hajime Asaoka to pursue personal artistic interests and utilize available resources efficiently, producing unique pieces that cater to his own creative impulses.
For consumers, the SBR signifies an opportunity to acquire a watch that embodies the design philosophy of a master watchmaker at a relatively accessible price point, albeit with extremely limited availability. The swift sell-out of past releases suggests that demand will continue to outstrip supply, creating a competitive environment for prospective buyers. This model of release also fosters a dedicated community of collectors who actively follow the brand and participate in its limited drops. The success of Kurono Tokyo, and particularly these SBRs, highlights a growing trend in the watch industry where independent brands, leveraging strong design narratives and strategic scarcity, can capture significant market attention and loyalty. The Saxe blue Calendrier SBR is not merely a watch; it is a statement of personal passion from a master craftsman, offered to a select few, embodying the unique blend of Japanese artistry and horological tradition that defines Kurono Tokyo.
Technical Specifications – Kurono Tokyo Calendrier Small Batch Release Saxe Blue
- Case: 38mm diameter x 11.5mm thickness (including crystal, 10mm without) – polished 316L stainless steel case – box-shaped sapphire crystal – solid steel screwed caseback – 50m water-resistant.
- Dial: Saxe blue dial with embossed vertical lines in the center emulating guilloché – smooth recessed sub-dials for day of the week and month – smooth chapter ring with applied chrome Arabic numerals, black railway-track minutes scale – stepped window for date at 6 o’clock – domed, bent, and polished hour and minute hands.
- Movement: Miyota 9122 – automatic – 26 jewels – 28,800vph (4Hz) – 40-hour power reserve – hours, minutes, seconds, triple calendar with date, day, and month.
- Strap: 20/16mm black calfskin leather strap with steel pin buckle.
- Availability: Highly limited production – one watch available per customer – online purchases at kuronotokyo.com open September 24th at 11:00 P.M. JST – Kurono Tokyo account required (registration is free) – deliveries from October.
- Price: USD 2,380 (excluding VAT).
