For Eric Wind and Charlie Dunne, the world of horology is more than a profession; it’s a deeply ingrained passion that has fostered profound relationships and shaped their lives. In a rare departure from their usual roles as arbiters of exceptional timepieces for others, these two respected voices in the vintage watch community opened their personal collections for the latest installment of Hodinkee’s "Talking Watches" series. This episode, hosted by Ben Clymer, delves into the personal stories behind the watches they’ve chosen to keep, underscoring how a shared love for horology can be learned, honed, and passed down through generations, forging bonds as strong as the steel and gold of the watches themselves.
The core of this "Talking Watches" episode lies in the intimate narratives woven around each timepiece. Wind and Dunne, whose professional paths have become intrinsically linked through Wind Vintage and their collaborative book, "Vintage Watches: The Modern Guide," present not just historically significant watches, but pieces that represent milestones in their friendship, mentorship, and personal journeys. Their selections are a testament to a collecting philosophy that values not only the intrinsic quality and rarity of a watch but also the human connections and experiences it embodies.
The Genesis of a Shared Passion: From Books to Business
Eric Wind’s deep roots in the watch world are well-documented. Before establishing Wind Vintage in 2017, Wind was a prominent and prolific contributor to Hodinkee, his insightful articles and auction coverage introducing a generation of enthusiasts to the intricate nuances of vintage watch collecting. His ability to imbue even the most obscure chronographs with captivating narratives, coupled with his rigorous scholarship, provided collectors with the essential tools to discern exceptional pieces from the merely old. This foundational work established him as a trusted authority, a reputation he has continued to build upon through his own firm, championing the belief that remarkable watches exist across a wide spectrum of price points.
Charlie Dunne’s entry into the horological arena followed a slightly different trajectory. Initially a collector of watch literature and a dedicated researcher, Dunne’s passion began to shift towards a career in the trade in 2021. During a planned two-week vacation from his digital marketing career, he interned with Eric Wind in Florida. This immersive experience proved to be a pivotal career change, leading him to become Vice President and Senior Watch Specialist at Wind Vintage. In this role, Dunne spearheads much of the company’s content creation and in-depth research. The watches he showcases in this episode trace this professional evolution, from a significant gift from Wind that marked the beginning of his career transition to vintage Rolexes that have deepened his commitment to scholarly pursuits and the appreciation of pristine condition.
Their collaboration culminated in the publication of "Vintage Watches: The Modern Guide," a testament to their shared vision. The book itself aims to present vintage watches as they truly are – encompassing their patina, scratches, and imperfections – rather than idealized representations. This philosophy directly mirrors the approach taken in this "Talking Watches" episode, where the watches on display are not museum pieces but living artifacts, worn, studied, gifted, and engraved, each carrying a unique story and bearing witness to the relationships forged around them.
A Curated Journey Through Personal Horological Histories
The selection of watches presented by Wind and Dunne offers a compelling glimpse into their individual tastes and the narrative arcs of their professional and personal lives. Each piece is more than a mere collectible; it’s a chapter in their ongoing story.
A Testament to Mentorship and Friendship:
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Vulcain Cricket for Ben Clymer: Host Ben Clymer himself participates in the wrist check with a gold Vulcain Cricket, a watch gifted to him by Eric Wind. This gesture underscores the deep personal bonds within the watch community and highlights the tradition of passing down meaningful timepieces. The Vulcain Cricket, known as the first commercially produced alarm wristwatch, carries historical significance, but its role here is primarily as a symbol of enduring friendship and mentorship.
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Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016 (Charlie Dunne): Charlie’s chosen Rolex Explorer, reference 1016, is a watch he acquired with confidence, thanks in part to Hodinkee’s own "Reference Points" series featuring Eric Wind, which provided him with the necessary knowledge. This watch represents his early days as a serious collector and his growing appreciation for robust, historically significant timepieces.
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Wind Vintage x Bamford Carrera (Eric Wind): Eric is seen wearing the unreleased Wind Vintage x Bamford Carrera. This collaborative project, still undergoing final refinements, signifies Eric’s ongoing contributions to the watch world beyond his retail activities. It represents a forward-looking aspect of his passion, blending his expertise with contemporary design and watchmaking partnerships.
Gifts and Milestones:
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute to 1931 (U.S. Edition) (Eric Wind): A wedding gift from his friend Jack Carlson, this Reverso is a cherished timepiece for Eric. Its significance is amplified by a personal engraving on the caseback – Our Lady of Guadalupe – which connects to his faith and his father’s Mexican heritage. The anecdote surrounding its polishing during the engraving process, met with Eric’s characteristic good humor, provides a poignant moment in the episode, illustrating his philosophical approach to life’s minor setbacks.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Reference E 850 (Charlie Dunne): This Memovox, with its warm pink dial and compact case, was a long-admired piece that Eric eventually gifted to Charlie after the latter’s internship. The caseback engraving, humorously listing "God, JLC, and Charlie Dunne," encapsulates their shared dynamic and mutual respect. These two Jaeger-LeCoultre pieces collectively highlight the brand’s significant place in both collectors’ hearts.
Iconic Dive Watches with Personal Resonance:
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Rolex Submariner Reference 5512 (Eric Wind): For Eric, this particular Submariner 5512, a rare "meters-first" model with a "Neat Fonts" dial, represents the culmination of a long search for an unpolished vintage Submariner. Its previous appearance in Hodinkee’s "Reference Points" series further cements its importance in his horological narrative.
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Rolex Submariner Reference 5512 (Charlie Dunne): Charlie’s meters-first 5512 began as a loan from Eric. Its enduring presence on his wrist during a Thanksgiving trip led to Eric gifting it to him, marking Charlie’s first vintage Rolex and fueling his deeper study of the differences between the 5512 and 5513.
Stories of Achievement and Retailer Exclusivity:
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Rolex Air-King Reference 14000 for Domino’s (Eric Wind): This 34mm Air-King is a travel companion for Eric, valued for its simplicity and versatility. Its unique provenance lies in its history as a reward for qualifying Domino’s franchisees. The caseback bears the recipient’s initials and those of Domino’s founder, Tom Monaghan, along with a retailer engraving, offering a fascinating glimpse into corporate incentive programs of the past.
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Rolex Datejust Reference 1601 "Wide Boy" (Charlie Dunne): This unpolished Reference 1601, gifted to Charlie by Eric with the playful moniker "A Wide Boy for my Wide Boy," has become a symbol of their banter and camaraderie. The running joke associated with the watch, and its eventual engraving, solidifies its place as a marker of their shared experiences.
A Nod to Lesser-Known Gems and Early Collectibles:
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Eterna for Birks Chronograph (Eric Wind): A gift from Ben Clymer to Eric for his 30th birthday, this late 1930s/early 1940s chronograph is a testament to the long-standing friendship between Wind and Clymer. The unsigned dial, combined with the Birks retailer marking on the inside caseback, highlights the collaborative nature of watch production and the significance of retailer-commissioned pieces.
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Enicar Sherpa Ultradive (Charlie Dunne): Charlie’s example of the iconic 1960s dive watch features a striking asymmetrical case, an internal rotating bezel, and a rare signed Enicar bracelet. The watch’s robust architecture and distinctive design underscore Charlie’s appreciation for historically significant tool watches.
Modern Interpretations of Classic Designs:
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Tudor Black Bay 58 for Rowing Blazers (Charlie Dunne): Designed by Eric Wind and Jack Carlson, this edition was gifted to Charlie by Eric. Its red text and pink accent offer a retro aesthetic, and Charlie’s modification with a Black Bay 54 bracelet enhances its wearability. The caseback motto, "I will find a way or make one," reflects a spirit of perseverance.
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Tudor Black Bay 58 for Hodinkee (Eric Wind): This modern Tudor, a gift from Ben Clymer, represents Eric’s first modern Tudor acquisition. The additional dial text was a nod to vintage retailer signatures, and for Eric, the watch is inextricably linked to his years of contributing to Hodinkee. He posits that this Black Bay 58, alongside his 5512, would form a perfect two-watch collection for his lifestyle.
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Cartier Tank Normale in Platinum on Bracelet NSO (Eric Wind): Demonstrating his appreciation for modern horology, Eric owns this Tank Normale with a gray dial and Breguet numerals. He particularly praises the platinum seven-link bracelet, considering it superior to vintage Cartier bracelets in terms of build and quality.
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Patek Philippe Reference 2508 in Rose Gold on Bracelet (Eric Wind): This unpolished rose-gold Patek Philippe exemplifies Eric’s emphasis on condition. He uses this watch to illustrate the rarity of well-preserved vintage Patek Philippe dials, which were often subject to cleaning or sanding, making examples with correctly aligned markers exceptionally scarce.
Heirlooms and Early Encounters:
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Patek Philippe Time-Only Pocket Watch from 1917 (Charlie Dunne): Charlie expresses a particular fondness for time-only Patek Philippe pocket watches, valuing their inherent quality and purity. This 1917 example, complete with its original box and a blue enamel caseback bearing the owner’s initials, was sourced by Eric through a descendant of its first owner, adding a layer of personal connection to its geographical origins near Charlie’s hometown.
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Rolex Sector Dial Time-Only Pocket Watch (Eric Wind): Eric considers the silvered sector dial on this Rolex pocket watch to be one of the most beautiful he has encountered from the brand. Made for the Canadian market, this nine-karat gold watch holds immense personal significance as the first timepiece that captivated his young son, Charlie. It has become a watch they share, a tangible link to their father-son bond.
The Enduring Significance of Condition and Collaboration
Throughout the episode, both Wind and Dunne consistently emphasize the importance of watch condition. This is particularly evident in their discussions of vintage Rolex Submariners and Patek Philippe timepieces. Their shared conviction that original, unpolished cases and well-preserved dials are paramount to a watch’s value and historical integrity informs their collecting habits and their advice to others. This meticulous attention to detail has been a hallmark of their careers and is a crucial element in their educational approach to vintage watch collecting.
The collaborative spirit that defines Wind Vintage and their book is also palpable in their personal watch selections. Many of the watches featured were either gifted, exchanged, or acquired through shared experiences, illustrating how their professional partnership has blossomed into a deep personal friendship. The episode serves as a microcosm of their shared philosophy: that the pursuit of horological knowledge and the appreciation of fine timepieces are amplified when shared with trusted companions and mentors.
Broader Implications for the Watch Collecting Community
The "Talking Watches" episode featuring Eric Wind and Charlie Dunne offers more than just an intimate look at two impressive watch collections. It provides valuable insights into the evolving landscape of watch collecting, particularly the growing appreciation for provenance, personal stories, and the educational aspect of the hobby.
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The Rise of Mentorship and Knowledge Sharing: The dynamic between Wind and Dunne exemplifies the critical role of mentorship in the watch world. Wind’s early influence on Dunne has clearly shaped his career and collecting sensibilities. This generational transfer of knowledge, facilitated by platforms like Hodinkee, is crucial for the continued health and growth of the collecting community.
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The Value of Personal Narratives: In an era where watch values can fluctuate dramatically, the emphasis on personal stories and provenance provides a more stable and meaningful anchor for collectors. The episode demonstrates that a watch’s significance is not solely tied to its market price but also to the memories, relationships, and experiences it represents.
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The Blurring Lines Between Vintage and Modern: The inclusion of contemporary pieces like the Cartier Tank Normale and Tudor Black Bay 58 by Eric Wind, and Charlie’s collaboration on the Rowing Blazers Tudor, highlights a trend where collectors are not rigidly confined to one era. Their ability to appreciate and integrate modern watches with their vintage collections speaks to a more holistic understanding of horology.
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The Importance of Condition and Authenticity: The consistent focus on unpolished cases, original dials, and overall condition reinforces the core principles of responsible vintage watch collecting. This dedication to authenticity and preservation sets a high standard for enthusiasts and contributes to the long-term value and integrity of the market.
The episode, supported by a detailed visual presentation of each watch, serves as both an engaging watch enthusiast’s program and a compelling case study in the power of shared passion. It underscores that in the intricate world of horology, the most valuable timepieces are often those that have witnessed the passage of time in the hands of those who truly cherish them, forging connections that last a lifetime.
