The world of horology is a vast and varied landscape, offering treasures for every taste and budget. This week, Hodinkee’s "What’s Selling Where" column shines a spotlight on a diverse array of timepieces, from the technologically innovative to the artistically bold, and the historically significant to the delightfully quirky. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or an aspiring enthusiast, these watches represent a compelling snapshot of the current secondary market, featuring pieces that have recently sold, remain available, or are heading to auction.
Musical Interlude and Market Recap
Before delving into the horological highlights, a brief nod to the broader cultural currents is in order. The author notes a recent surge of exceptional music releases, citing new albums from Twisted Teens and Phoebe Bridgers as particularly noteworthy. The vibrant sounds of the Alabama Shakes are also recommended for those seeking fresh auditory experiences. This acknowledgment of music’s cultural impact serves as a gentle reminder that the appreciation of craftsmanship and design extends beyond the wrist.
The previous week’s auction results offer a glimpse into market sentiment. A Lemania RAF monopusher found a new owner for 2,000 GBP, demonstrating consistent demand for vintage military timepieces. While the final sale price of the Goodwill UG Clapton remains undisclosed, its appearance at over $24,000 signals its significant collectible value. On the dealer front, an Alpina-Gruen has been successfully sold, indicating active trading among specialized retailers. However, two pieces, a Cartier Shutter and a RAN monopusher, are still awaiting their next custodians, presenting ongoing opportunities for interested buyers.
Curated Selections: From Lighters to Luxury
The curated selection of watches presented this week spans a remarkable range, reflecting the diverse avenues through which collectors can acquire timepieces. For the discerning individual who appreciates both utility and elegance, a sterling silver Alfred Dunhill table lighter, ingeniously incorporating a watch, is highlighted. This piece, available through Drouot, exemplifies a sophisticated approach to functional luxury, blending the art of watchmaking with the refinement of a gentleman’s accessory.
The auction also features an Omega Speedmaster ref. 2998-4 from circa 1960. While a full in-depth analysis of this particular watch is reserved due to the presence of another highly compelling timepiece in the same auction, its inclusion speaks to the enduring appeal of the Speedmaster lineage. The reference 2998-4, known for its "Ed White" predecessor and its association with early space exploration, is a significant piece for any collector of iconic chronographs.
For those seeking a more varied acquisition, a lot on Hibid presents a trio of wristwatches: a Tourneau "Top Gun," a solid gold Charles Nicolet, and a unique Helbros featuring a fowl motif, catering to a range of tastes, from aviation enthusiasts to those with a penchant for the whimsical. Furthermore, an Audemars Freres Geneve watch, despite a dial exhibiting signs of wear, warrants attention due to the relative rarity of the Audemars Freres brand, underscoring the principle that historical significance can sometimes outweigh cosmetic imperfections.
Featured Timepieces: A Deeper Dive
This edition of "What’s Selling Where" showcases four distinct timepieces, each with its own narrative and appeal: the Seiko Sportura Titanium, the Breitling Tabarly Racing Mate, the Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski Titanium, and the Yema Sous Marine ‘Tomahawk’.
Seiko Sportura Titanium (ref SLQ011)
The Seiko Sportura Titanium, reference SLQ011, presents a bold and avant-garde design that may initially deter those accustomed to more conventional watch aesthetics. Its distinctive shape and sculpted lines evoke a sense of futuristic minimalism, reminiscent of certain avant-garde designs from the mid-20th century. However, the true horological significance of this timepiece lies beneath its unconventional exterior.
The watch is powered by Seiko’s 9T82 kinetic movement, a pioneering technology that represents a crucial evolutionary step in watchmaking. This movement was among the first to successfully harness the wearer’s motion to generate electricity, which was then stored in a capacitor (referred to by Seiko as an ESU – Electricity Storage Unit) to power the watch. This innovation laid the groundwork for subsequent advancements like Seiko’s Spring Drive.
However, the inherent complexity of capacitor-based movements, particularly those from the early 2000s, presents a significant consideration for potential buyers. Capacitors, by their nature, have a finite lifespan and can degrade more rapidly if the watch is not regularly used. Consequently, a watch from this era featuring a capacitor for power storage is likely to require substantial servicing, potentially costing upwards of four figures and necessitating a return to Seiko for specialized attention.
Despite these potential service challenges, the Seiko Sportura Titanium remains a compelling proposition for collectors who appreciate its unique design and historical horological importance. The example featured at Azur Enchères appears to be in good physical condition, complete with its original titanium bracelet and an exhibition caseback revealing a well-finished movement. The chronograph function, capable of measuring elapsed time to the tenth of a second, further adds to its technical appeal. The watch is slated for auction on the 26th in Cannes, France, with an estimated price range of €500-€700, making it an accessible entry point into the world of advanced kinetic watchmaking.
Breitling Tabarly Racing Mate 80770
The Breitling Tabarly Racing Mate, reference 80770, is another timepiece that defies conventional expectations, offering a blend of maritime heritage and distinctive design. While the integrated bracelet might evoke comparisons to other iconic sports watches of the era, its lineage is firmly rooted in Breitling’s collaborations rather than the famed designs of Gérald Genta.
The caseback proudly bears the inscription "Designed and Tested with Eric Tabarly," a tribute to the legendary French sailor who revolutionized sailing and offshore racing. This collaboration firmly places the watch within the context of 1980s and 1990s watchmaking, a period when many brands sought to align themselves with prominent figures in sports and adventure. The presence of tritium on the dial further confirms its production within this timeframe.
Interestingly, the specific designation "Racing Mate" on this particular dial is somewhat unusual. Research indicates that the majority of Breitling Tabarly models feature the name "Tabarly" prominently displayed. The exact meaning or origin of "Racing Mate" in this context remains a subject of speculation, perhaps referring to a specific Japanese distributor or a niche model variant, and is an area where further historical research could yield fascinating insights.
Despite the ambiguity surrounding the "Racing Mate" designation, the watch itself is a captivating piece. Measuring 34.5mm in diameter, it features a distinctive rotating bezel with screws at twelve distinct planes. The dial is clean, with aged lume plots that harmonize with the hands, which exhibit a pleasing patina. A screw-down crown ensures water resistance, and the overall condition of the watch, as depicted in the provided images, appears to be excellent, bordering on exceptional.
The timepiece is powered by a quartz movement. The fact that the seconds hand is stationary in the photographs suggests it may require a new battery at a minimum, or potentially a more involved repair or donor movement in the worst-case scenario. However, given the watch’s superb physical condition, any investment in its restoration would likely be rewarded with a highly attractive and uncommon reference from a renowned brand. This Breitling is part of an auction running from the 24th to the 26th, with an estimated price range of €750-€950.
Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski Titanium
Hublot, a brand often characterized by its bold and sometimes polarizing aesthetic, consistently produces timepieces that push the boundaries of design. The Classic Fusion Orlinski Titanium exemplifies this approach, showcasing a collaborative effort that imbues a familiar silhouette with a striking artistic vision.
The collaboration with renowned contemporary artist Richard Orlinski is evident in the watch’s multifaceted design. Orlinski’s signature sculptural style, characterized by sharp angles, geometric planes, and a dynamic interplay of light and shadow, is translated directly onto the watch’s bezel, bracelet, and dial. For those unfamiliar with Orlinski’s work, a glance at this Hublot provides an immediate introduction to his distinctive aesthetic.
The watch retains the familiar 40mm case size of the Classic Fusion line. At its heart beats the HUB1100 movement, a caliber based on the Sellita 300 but meticulously finished by Hublot. The true artistic transformation lies in the bezel and bracelet, which are rendered angular and reflective, designed to capture and play with light, complementing the multi-planar dial. Notably, the dial itself features no printing; the Hublot logo and "Swiss Made" designation are elegantly placed on the sapphire crystal, further enhancing the purity of the sculpted surfaces.
Offered by Meticulist for $8,950, this time-only watch represents a significant investment. However, for collectors seeking a timepiece that is not merely a functional object but also a piece of wearable art, the Classic Fusion Orlinski offers substantial appeal. Its ability to manipulate light and create a visually engaging experience makes it a compelling choice for those who appreciate avant-garde design and the fusion of horology with contemporary art.
Yema Sous Marine ‘Tomahawk’
Concluding this week’s selection is the Yema Sous Marine ‘Tomahawk’, a timepiece that embodies rugged charm and accessible horology. The nickname "Tomahawk" likely derives from the watch’s aggressive yet functional aesthetic, perhaps hinting at its robust construction and capability for everyday wear.
Dating back to the 1970s, this Yema Sous Marine is powered by the robust Valjoux 7734 chronograph movement, a testament to the quality and reliability of vintage Swiss watchmaking. The tonneau-shaped steel case measures a substantial 40mm in width, offering a contemporary wrist presence. While the images do not definitively clarify whether the case edges are softened or simply not captured in sharp detail, the overall impression is one of durability.
Close inspection of the dial reveals minor scuffs on the white central paintwork, visible only upon extreme magnification. However, the hands and lume appear to be in excellent condition, and while the dial plots have aged to a pleasing patina, there is no indication of reluming or significant restoration. This suggests an unadulterated vintage character.
The Yema Sous Marine ‘Tomahawk’ serves as an excellent example of how appealing and functional watches can be found outside the realm of ultra-high-end collectibles. It represents an accessible option for everyday wear, offering robust performance and undeniable style without the financial strain associated with more coveted pieces. This watch is scheduled to be auctioned on the 25th, with an estimated price range of 800-1,200 GBP, making it an attractive proposition for those seeking a blend of vintage appeal, solid mechanical movement, and everyday wearability. It stands as a reminder that variety and enjoyment in watch collecting can be found at all price points, offering a satisfying experience akin to enjoying simple, well-prepared fare after indulging in haute cuisine.
