Orient Star is ushering in a new era with the launch of its Sakigake collection, a pivotal release marking the brand’s significant 75th anniversary. While many of Orient Star’s recent offerings pay homage to its storied past and the foundational elements that have defined its identity, the Sakigake collection, particularly the Sakigake Three Hand model, firmly pivots towards the future. This new direction is most dramatically signaled by the departure from one of the brand’s most recognizable design signatures: the power reserve indicator. Since 1996, a power reserve complication has been a near-ubiquitous feature on Orient Star dials. However, the Sakigake Three Hand breaks this nearly three-decade tradition, presenting a clean, uncluttered dial that prioritizes essential timekeeping. The deliberate omission of a date window further streamlines the display, focusing solely on the hour, minute, and second.
The name "Sakigake," a Japanese term that can be translated as "forerunner" or "pioneer," aptly captures the spirit of this new collection. Positioned within the Contemporary Collection, the Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand is engineered for everyday wearability while maintaining the brand’s commitment to a premium aesthetic. Its case, crafted from 316L stainless steel, measures a compact 38.7mm in diameter and has a total thickness of 11.8mm. While not exceptionally thin, these proportions contribute to a sporty-elegant character that balances comfort and presence on the wrist. The watch is designed to be a versatile companion, suitable for a variety of occasions, from casual outings to more formal settings.
A Closer Look at the Dial and Design Philosophy
The dial of the Sakigake Three Hand is a testament to subtle, nature-inspired design. The applied indexes, a hallmark of refined watchmaking, feature a unique petal-like form with faceted edges and ribbed upper surfaces. This thoughtful detailing allows them to interact beautifully with light, creating subtle visual interest without being ostentatious. The absence of a date window ensures that all twelve indexes remain intact and symmetrically placed, contributing to a balanced and harmonious dial layout. A slightly more prominent, wedge-shaped marker at the 12 o’clock position provides clear orientation.
However, one notable omission from both the indexes and the dial itself is the absence of luminous material. This decision, while contributing to a cleaner aesthetic, may be perceived as a missed opportunity for a watch intended for daily use where legibility in low-light conditions is often a desirable trait. The hands, too, are devoid of lume. While the reviewer expresses a personal preference for integrated lume on the center sections of the indexes and the tips of the skeletonized hands, the handset itself is highly regarded for its distinctive yet not overly decorative cut-out design. The polished seconds hand, extending to the minute track on the raised rehaut with its concentric grooves, ensures precise time-setting.
To compensate for the absence of the power reserve indicator and date, Orient Star has relied on texture and finishing to imbue the dial with visual appeal. A radial sunburst pattern emanates from the center, a particularly striking feature on the light blue model. This finish is also present on the silver and gold variants, offering a more understated elegance, while a limited-edition copper version provides a unique and richer tone. The applied Orient Star logo beneath the 12 o’clock position is elegantly balanced by a simple "Automatic" script above the 6 o’clock marker. This minimalist approach, combined with the cleaner layout, results in an overall refined and refreshingly understated timepiece that establishes a distinct identity within the current Orient Star lineup.
The Bracelet: A New Design Narrative
The Sakigake collection also introduces a novel design language in its bracelet. Before examining the bracelet itself, attention is drawn to the lugs, which exhibit a captivating contrast in finishing. The outer surfaces are polished, while the inner sections are finished with a hairline brush. The shape of these lugs is described as evoking the "twin tails of a comet," a nod to Orient Star’s penchant for celestial inspiration. This design creates a visual effect where the polished portion of the lugs appears to be the sole element integrated with the case, while the brushed section seems to be a continuation of the case itself.
A crucial detail regarding the lug design is the effective spacing. While specifications might suggest a conventional lug width, the actual gap between the lugs is a mere 16mm. This narrow spacing, though not constituting a fully integrated bracelet, significantly limits the options for aftermarket strap replacements. This suggests that the Sakigake Three Hand is meticulously designed to be worn on its accompanying bracelet.
The bracelet itself continues the collection’s theme, featuring polished H-shaped links that flank brushed center links. The taper is subtle, allowing the bracelet to flow harmoniously from the case. Orient Star has also made a significant effort to reduce the bulk of the clasp. Compared to the standard Orient Star clasp, which measures approximately 7.4mm thick when closed, the Sakigake Three Hand’s clasp is a more svelte 5.9mm at its thickest point. This seemingly minor reduction makes an immediate and noticeable difference in comfort on the wrist, contributing to extended wearability. While a micro-adjustment system is absent, Orient Star has included a half-link to facilitate a more precise fit for the wearer.
Inside the Case: The New F7542 Caliber
Powering the Sakigake Three Hand is the brand-new in-house automatic caliber F7542. This movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz) and boasts a power reserve of over 50 hours when fully wound. It is equipped with 22 jewels and adheres to a stated accuracy tolerance of -5/+15 seconds per day. The movement is visible through a sapphire display case back, offering a glimpse into the intricate mechanics. The finishing on the F7542 is described as relatively simple, featuring ribbing on the rotor and perlage across the bridges and plates. While not reaching the heights of haute horlogerie, the presence of any level of finishing at this price point is commendable and adds to the overall value proposition.
The steel ring of the case back includes standard engravings detailing the watch’s Japanese manufacture, materials, and a water resistance rating of 10 bar (100 meters). The limited-edition copper-dial model is further distinguished by an individual serial number, part of its 900-piece production run. A screw-down crown, adorned with Orient Star’s traditional "S-within-an-O" motif, completes the robust construction of the case.
A New Direction for Orient Star
The introduction of the Sakigake collection marks a significant moment for Orient Star, coinciding with its 75th anniversary. The brand, which has built a reputation for delivering well-crafted and accessible timepieces with a distinctive Japanese design sensibility, is now demonstrating a willingness to evolve and innovate. The Sakigake Three Hand, in particular, represents a conscious effort to broaden its appeal by offering a cleaner, more minimalist aesthetic.
This shift in design philosophy has been met with considerable interest. For collectors who have admired Orient Star’s commitment to quality and craftsmanship but found its traditional dials somewhat busy, the Sakigake collection offers a compelling alternative. The removal of the power reserve indicator and date window allows the dial to breathe, creating a sense of spaciousness and elegance. The interplay of the radial sunburst finish and the distinctive skeletonized hands ensures that the dial remains engaging without feeling cluttered.
The integration of the bracelet, while visually striking, does present a minor limitation in terms of strap versatility. However, this focus on a cohesive design, where the bracelet and case are conceived as a unified entity, is a characteristic of many high-end watch designs. The thoughtful engineering of the clasp for enhanced comfort further underscores Orient Star’s dedication to user experience.
Pricing and Availability
The Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand is available in several variations. The light blue dial model retails for approximately €880. The limited-edition copper dial version, a special celebratory piece for the brand’s 75th anniversary, is priced at around €960 and is limited to 900 pieces worldwide. Further details and purchasing information can be found on the official Orient Star website.
The launch of the Sakigake collection signifies a bold step for Orient Star, demonstrating a commitment to both honoring its heritage and embracing the future. The Sakigake Three Hand, with its clean design, refined finishing, and new in-house movement, is poised to attract a new generation of watch enthusiasts while reaffirming the brand’s standing in the competitive watchmaking landscape. The question remains whether this new direction will resonate with the brand’s existing fanbase and attract new admirers who value a more understated yet sophisticated timepiece. The "forerunner" spirit of the Sakigake collection suggests that Orient Star is ready to lead the way in its next chapter of watchmaking excellence.
