Fears, a storied British watchmaker with a legacy stretching back to 1846, has announced a significant new chapter in its modern history with the introduction of its first-ever high complication: the Perpetual Calendar. This ambitious undertaking, coinciding with the brand’s 10th anniversary since its revival in 2016, sees the esteemed Brunswick collection embrace one of horology’s most intricate and revered mechanisms. The debut of the Perpetual Calendar within the flagship Brunswick line is not merely an addition but a redefinition, enhanced by a redesigned case architecture that renders it the thinnest Brunswick watch to date.
The Brunswick collection, since its reintroduction in 2017, has been instrumental in Fears’ modern era, serving as the foundation for its mechanical timepieces. It masterfully blends a vintage-inspired aesthetic – characterized by its cushion-shaped case, prominent onion crown, and signature sector dial – with contemporary design sensibilities. The typography and numerals are meticulously drawn from archival pieces, paying homage to the brand’s rich heritage. It is within this context of historical reverence and modern innovation that Fears has chosen to launch its first high complication in over 180 years, a testament to the enduring appeal and adaptability of the Brunswick design.
A Symphony of Complications and Craftsmanship
The new Brunswick Perpetual Calendar, despite incorporating the complex functions of day, date, month, year, and leap year indications, maintains a remarkably compact and wearable diameter of just 39mm. This feat of miniaturization in high watchmaking is often dictated by the intricate architecture of the movement itself. Fears has achieved this by leveraging the expertise of Dubois Dépraz, utilizing their highly regarded perpetual calendar module. This module is expertly integrated atop a meticulously hand-finished Sellita SW300 base movement, a combination that speaks to Fears’ commitment to both precision engineering and traditional finishing techniques.
The caliber, designated reference 55113, is exclusive to Fears and has been specifically modified to meet the brand’s exacting standards. The base movement is a canvas for exquisite craftsmanship, featuring hand-decorated frosted bridges and plates. The edges of these components are adorned with hand-applied anglage, finished with a sophisticated dark rhodium plating. Powering this intricate mechanism is a custom automatic winding rotor crafted from solid 18-karat gold, elegantly engraved with the Fears "Bristol Flower" motif, a subtle yet distinctive brand signature.
Further contributing to the watch’s svelte profile are the ingeniously integrated corrector pushers. Neatly recessed into the brushed case band, these allow for the precise setting and resetting of the perpetual calendar indications. Their design ensures a seamless integration with the case, avoiding any disruption to the watch’s elegant lines, and are engineered to sit centrally within the case, enhancing both form and function.
An Enchanting Moonphase and Bespoke Presentation
Adding another layer of horological poetry, the Brunswick Perpetual Calendar also features Fears’ first-ever moonphase complication, artfully positioned at the 6 o’clock sub-dial. This romantic complication is rendered with a clean, black lacquer disc, upon which two silver moons are meticulously hand-finished with a charbonage technique. This artisanal approach replicates the subtle texture and depth of the lunar surface, lending the display an captivating realism.
The watch is presented on a hand-made and hand-sewn ostrich leather strap in a warm walnut brown. The strap is lined with Fears Blue Alcantara, a signature color for the brand, creating a luxurious and comfortable wearing experience. This rich strap beautifully complements the silver mink dial, accentuating the warmth of the black gold-coated hands and indices. The overall aesthetic is one of understated elegance and refined taste.
The presentation extends to the packaging, with each Brunswick Perpetual Calendar arriving in a new bespoke box, also finished in Fears Blue. The lid of the box features a subtle marquetry representation of the Union Jack flag, a nod to the brand’s British heritage. Further enhancing the ownership experience, each watch is accompanied by a SwissKubik watch winder, finished in the signature Fears Blue, ensuring the timepiece remains wound and ready to wear.
A New Era of Haute Horlogerie at Fears
The Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar is not a limited edition; instead, it takes its place as a permanent fixture in the brand’s permanent catalog. It joins the Fears Garrick within a newly established Eminence Collection. This distinguished collection is dedicated to showcasing Fears’ most luxurious timepieces, characterized by their hand-finished movements, haute horlogerie construction, and exceptional detailing.
For discerning collectors seeking unparalleled exclusivity, Fears offers bespoke versions of the Perpetual Calendar through its Custom Division. These made-to-order pieces are exclusively available in platinum, allowing clients to collaborate with the brand on unique specifications.
The pricing for the Brunswick Perpetual Calendar is set at $28,500. The timepiece officially makes its debut today, with shipping anticipated to commence in mid-September. This launch signifies a pivotal moment for Fears, demonstrating its capability to produce highly complex mechanical watches that uphold the brand’s commitment to traditional watchmaking, refined design, and exceptional craftsmanship.
The Context of Fears’ Renaissance and Horological Significance
Fears’ journey since its 2016 revival is a compelling narrative in the contemporary watch industry. Founded by Edwin Fear in 1846, the brand enjoyed a distinguished history before ceasing operations in the 1970s. The modern incarnation, led by the fourth generation of the family, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, has meticulously rebuilt the brand, focusing on creating timepieces that are both historically informed and aesthetically relevant for today’s discerning collector.
The Brunswick collection, launched in 2017, was a cornerstone of this renaissance. It represented the brand’s first mechanical line of the modern era and was an immediate success, celebrated for its harmonious blend of vintage charm and refined contemporary execution. The collection’s success laid the groundwork for further expansion and the exploration of more complex watchmaking.
The introduction of a perpetual calendar is a significant benchmark for any watch brand. This complication, which accurately displays the date, day, month, and year, including leap years, without requiring manual correction until the year 2100, is considered one of the pinnacles of mechanical watchmaking. Its complexity lies in the intricate gearing and mechanisms required to account for the varying lengths of months and the quadrennial leap year cycle. Mastering this complication signifies a brand’s deep understanding of horological engineering and its commitment to pushing the boundaries of its craft.
Broader Implications for Fears and the Watch Market
The launch of the Brunswick Perpetual Calendar has several significant implications for Fears and the broader independent watchmaking sector. Firstly, it firmly establishes Fears as a serious contender in the realm of high complication watchmaking. This move elevates the brand’s standing and appeals to a more sophisticated clientele who appreciate technical prowess alongside aesthetic refinement.
Secondly, by integrating a Dubois Dépraz module with a Sellita base and executing it with Fears’ signature hand-finishing, the brand demonstrates a pragmatic yet uncompromising approach to high complication production. This strategy allows for the creation of complex watches at a price point that, while substantial, remains accessible compared to many established haute horlogerie brands that develop their complications entirely in-house. This approach democratizes access to intricate watchmaking, a trend that has seen considerable growth in recent years.
Thirdly, the introduction of a non-limited perpetual calendar into the permanent collection, alongside the Garrick in the Eminence Collection, signals a strategic commitment to building a portfolio of enduring luxury timepieces. This suggests a long-term vision for Fears that extends beyond limited editions and special projects, aiming to establish a lasting legacy in high horology.
The choice of the Brunswick case, already beloved for its wearability and vintage appeal, as the platform for this complication is also noteworthy. It demonstrates Fears’ ability to adapt its established design language to accommodate complex mechanisms without compromising the watch’s core identity or wearability, a challenge that often plagues the design of highly complicated watches.
The pricing of $28,500 positions the Fears Brunswick Perpetual Calendar competitively within the independent watchmaking market for this level of complication. It offers a compelling alternative to established brands, particularly for those who value artisanal finishing, a rich brand narrative, and a degree of exclusivity. The availability of bespoke platinum versions further enhances its appeal to a clientele seeking ultimate personalization.
The expected shipping date in mid-September places the release strategically, potentially aligning with the autumn watch show season or leading into the crucial holiday buying period. This launch is more than just a new watch; it’s a declaration of intent from Fears, showcasing its ambition and capability to ascend to new heights in the world of haute horlogerie. The Brunswick Perpetual Calendar is a tangible representation of a brand that, in just a decade since its renaissance, has successfully married its historical legacy with the demands of modern, sophisticated watchmaking.
