The landscape of haute horlogerie is experiencing a vibrant resurgence, marked by a growing cohort of young, independent watchmakers who are bravely charting their own course. Among these emerging talents, Alexandre Martin, a 28-year-old Belgian craftsman, has officially unveiled his eponymous brand and its maiden creation, the exquisite "1965." Established in Morges, Switzerland, a stone’s throw from the picturesque shores of Lake Geneva and the intellectual hub of Lausanne, Martin’s venture signifies a notable addition to the world of independent watchmaking, a sector increasingly celebrated for its innovation and artisanal dedication. The debut timepiece, a refined three-hand watch, belies the maker’s ultimate ambition: to specialise in the intricate domain of horological complications.
A Prodigious Beginning: From Childhood Fascination to Swiss Mastery
Alexandre Martin’s journey into the intricate world of watchmaking began at a remarkably young age, igniting at the tender age of 12. This early fascination was nurtured within a household that celebrated skilled craftsmanship, influenced by his father’s profession as a restorer of antique furniture. This immersion in artisanal excellence provided fertile ground for Martin’s burgeoning passion. His formal education commenced at the IATA school in Namur, Belgium, an institution that would become the crucible for his dedication to horology. It was during these formative years that a clear and unwavering ambition solidified: to become a watchmaker renowned for his expertise in complex mechanisms, or complications.
Driven by this singular vision, Martin pursued his apprenticeship with a dual focus. Beyond his structured curriculum, he dedicated considerable personal time to restoring vintage timepieces. This self-directed practice served a dual purpose: it generated essential funds for acquiring specialized tools and, more importantly, provided an invaluable platform for honing his nascent skills and developing an intimate understanding of mechanical intricacies. Upon graduating, Martin made a pivotal decision, relocating to Switzerland, the undisputed epicentre of high-end watchmaking, with the resolute aim of immersing himself in the world of complications.
The path, however, was not paved with immediate success. The established structures within major watch manufactures often necessitate years of dedicated experience before watchmakers are entrusted with the delicate art of complications. Martin, eager to accelerate his development, encountered numerous rejections as he diligently knocked on doors. His perseverance eventually yielded an opportunity with the late Pierre Favre of MHC (Manufacture Horlogère de la Côte), who recognized the young Belgian’s potential and offered him a crucial chance. Following MHC’s subsequent bankruptcy, Martin continued to build his formidable experience at Greubel Forsey, a brand synonymous with groundbreaking innovation. Here, he contributed to the prestigious "Hand-Made" project, a testament to exceptional craftsmanship. His career progression then led him to Petermann Bédat, where he gained hands-on experience with the intricate production of a split-seconds chronograph, further solidifying his expertise in complex watchmaking.
The Genesis of the 1965: A Tangible Vision
The ambition to establish his own brand had long been a driving force for Alexandre Martin. This aspiration has now materialized with the unveiling of the 1965, a timepiece that, while appearing as a classic three-hand watch, represents a significant and deliberate step in his horological odyssey. The choice to launch with a dress watch, rather than an immediate dive into his preferred realm of complications, might seem counterintuitive for a watchmaker whose career has been meticulously shaped by a desire to master complex mechanisms. However, the resulting timepiece is a compelling testament to his refined aesthetic sensibilities and his commitment to delivering a product of exceptional quality from the outset.
Martin’s approach to launching his brand distinguishes him from many of his contemporaries in the independent watchmaking scene. Rather than adopting the prevalent model of presenting a design concept, opening pre-orders, securing buyers, and then embarking on the development and manufacturing process, Martin opted for a more grounded and confident strategy. He insisted on presenting a tangible product, a watch in which he could place his absolute trust and conviction, demonstrating his capability before seeking commercial engagement. This deliberate choice underscores a commitment to immediate quality and a desire to build trust through demonstrable achievement.
A Movement Reimagined: The CYMA 586 Base and Beyond
To realize this vision of a tangible debut, Martin strategically chose not to embark on the creation of an entirely new movement from scratch. Instead, he selected a proven, vintage base movement: the CYMA 586. This decision allowed him to focus on the meticulous finishing and refinement that would define his brand’s identity. While retaining the mainplate and the fundamental gear train of the CYMA 586, these core components have undergone extensive and beautiful refinishing. Crucially, bridges have been entirely manufactured to Martin’s specifications, showcasing his design and engineering input. The balance wheel, along with its Breguet overcoil hairspring, has also been remade, ensuring precision and aesthetic harmony. Furthermore, the click mechanism has been re-engineered to incorporate a mobile system, a subtle yet significant enhancement to the movement’s functionality and artisanal appeal.
The overall execution of the movement is nothing short of superb, reflecting a profound dedication to detail and a deep respect for traditional watchmaking techniques. Features such as a hand-brushed grained finish on the mainplate and bridges adorned with meticulous beveling and sharp inward angles speak volumes about the level of craftsmanship involved. For the initial prototype, Martin utilized a vintage CYMA movement to demonstrate his concept. However, for the commercial production of the 1965, the entire assembly will be newly manufactured, allowing for further enhancements. A key improvement will be the reworking of the barrel to significantly increase the power reserve, aiming to surpass the original CYMA 586’s 36-hour capacity and offer a more robust user experience. This meticulous approach to movement finishing and refinement, even when based on a vintage caliber, sets a high bar for the brand’s future endeavors.
An Understated Aesthetic: Contemporary Elegance with Personal Meaning
The hand-wound movement is elegantly encased within a refined round steel case, measuring a contemporary and highly wearable 38 mm in diameter and an impressively slim 9.35 mm in thickness. This thoughtful proportion ensures a comfortable fit on a variety of wrists and contributes to the watch’s timeless appeal. The dial, a canvas for Martin’s design vision, has been executed with equal care and attention to detail. It is artfully segmented into three distinct sections, enhancing visual depth and legibility.
A particularly striking feature is the small seconds sub-dial, positioned at the 6 o’clock position. This sub-dial is crafted from enamel, a material renowned for its lustrous depth and enduring beauty. The enamel work has been entrusted to the esteemed workshops of Anita Porchet, a celebrated artisan whose name is synonymous with the highest echelon of enamel dial creation in contemporary watchmaking. This collaboration elevates the 1965 beyond a mere timepiece into a work of art, imbuing it with a touch of exceptional luxury and exclusivity.
The overall aesthetic of the Alexandre Martin 1965 consciously embraces certain design codes characteristic of contemporary independent watchmaking. It possesses a modern sensibility, featuring details that will resonate immediately with seasoned enthusiasts of the independent sector. Yet, the watch is far from derivative; it exudes a distinct personality and a sense of quiet confidence. Martin reveals that every detail of the watch is imbued with personal significance, drawing inspiration from his other profound passion: the mountains and the exhilaration of activities like paragliding.
This inspiration is most evident in the design of the white gold hour markers. They are meticulously crafted to appear as if suspended above the dial, creating an illusion of lightness and a sense of them "floating." This design choice evokes the vast, open spaces and the ethereal quality of high-altitude environments. Complementing this theme, the beautifully hand-polished steel hands are also inspired by the robust and functional design of high mountain gear, emphasizing both form and utility. This fusion of horological artistry with personal inspiration lends the 1965 a unique narrative and a deeply personal connection for its creator.
A Limited Debut and a Glimpse into the Future
The Alexandre Martin 1965 will initially be released in stainless steel as a strictly limited series of just 12 pieces. The timepiece is priced at CHF 65,000, with deliveries anticipated to commence within approximately 18 months. This phased production approach allows Martin to maintain rigorous quality control and ensure each watch meets his exacting standards. Following this initial steel edition, the brand plans to introduce two further limited series of 12 pieces each, crafted in platinum and pink gold, offering collectors the opportunity to acquire the 1965 in precious metals.
For those eager to explore Alexandre Martin’s burgeoning brand and stay abreast of future developments, further details and updates can be found on his official Instagram page: www.instagram.com/alexandre.martin.watches. The launch of the 1965 marks not just the debut of a watch, but the promising inception of a new independent watchmaker poised to make a significant contribution to the world of haute horlogerie. His meticulous craftsmanship, thoughtful design, and personal narrative suggest a future filled with innovation and artistic expression.
