Before the groundbreaking Big Bang collection exploded onto the luxury watch scene in 2005, forever altering the trajectory of Hublot, the brand’s foundation was meticulously laid by Carlo Crocco. His audacious vision in 1980, a daring fusion of precious gold and robust rubber, introduced the pioneering concept of "The Art of Fusion," a philosophy that would become the brand’s enduring signature. Now, Hublot embarks on a journey back to its origins with the Classic Fusion Tributo, a collection that distills 46 years of horological expertise into two exquisite gold references. These new timepieces elegantly preserve the sleek, pared-back aesthetic of the original 1980 watch, while thoughtfully upgrading its quartz movement to a sophisticated automatic calibre, notably supplied by sister brand Zenith.
The Genesis of an Icon: The Birth of Hublot and the Art of Fusion
The 1980s witnessed the ascendance of the luxury sports watch as a distinct category, with rubber already making inroads into more accessible sports watch segments, exemplified by brands like Swatch. However, Carlo Crocco’s concept of juxtaposing solid gold with natural rubber was nothing short of revolutionary. In an exclusive interview, Crocco elaborated on his initial inspiration. His existing MDM brand (Marie Danielle Montres) featured an elegant gold watch characterized by a bezel adorned with twelve screws. Crocco sought to imbue this design with a more dynamic, versatile, and sporty character. To realize this ambitious vision, he assembled a select team, including the talented Italian designer Francesco Maria Vimercati and the skilled Swiss case manufacturer Eric Bonnet. Their collective mission was to harmonize traditional Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship with the flair and aesthetic sensibility of Italian design.
During a pivotal brainstorming session, the idea of incorporating rubber into the watch’s construction emerged. Crocco was immediately captivated by its potential. The visual and tactile contrast between a refined gold case and a supple black rubber strap promised an unexpected yet remarkably sensuous dimension. However, the integration of rubber presented significant technical challenges. Rubber manufacturers at the time were unaccustomed to working with the minute tolerances and high-precision demands of fine watchmaking. Undeterred, Crocco enlisted the expertise of engineer Guido Gamberini, who dedicated two years to perfecting the rubber strap. The result was the 1980 MDM Hublot, a timepiece that, as Crocco candidly admits, "shocked the industry." The established watchmaking professionals were perplexed, many dismissing his innovative approach as bordering on the irrational.
Presented at the Basel Fair under the MDM Genève banner, Crocco’s groundbreaking luxury sports watch, distinguished by its twelve exposed screws on the bezel, was christened "Hublot," a name derived from the French word for porthole. The original timepiece was housed in a slim 36mm yellow gold case, showcasing a masterful interplay of brushed and polished finishes. Its construction was notably complex, featuring a bezel with twelve meticulously placed screws that doubled as functional hour markers, eschewing traditional numerals. This bold design was complemented by an integrated black natural rubber strap, fastened by a cleverly concealed double-blade deployant clasp.
The minimalist black dial, featuring a discreet date window at the 3 o’clock position, allowed the unconventional pairing of precious metal and natural rubber to take center stage. Powered by a quartz movement and conceived for everyday wear, the original Hublot was a testament to audacious, design-led innovation in the luxury sports watch segment. Its popularity surged, and the watch’s distinctive name, "La Hublot," eventually transcended the model to become the official brand name. Crocco aptly summarized this period of inception, stating, "it was the right moment, the right product."
A Reverent Return: The Classic Fusion Tributo Reimagines an Icon
Hublot enthusiasts will recognize the brand’s consistent dedication to honoring its heritage. The marque has previously paid homage to Crocco’s foundational watch through various models within its esteemed Classic Fusion family. Notable reinterpretations include the 40th-anniversary collection, which featured 45mm cases with more angular lines and a bezel with six screws, and the 2023 Classic Fusion Original collection, available in 42mm and 38mm sizes, both powered by reliable Sellita automatic movements.
The new Classic Fusion Tributo collection marks a significant step closer to Crocco’s original vision. It meticulously restores the iconic twelve-screw bezel, recapturing the compelling tension between solid gold and sleek black rubber that defined the watch from its inception. Available in luxurious 18k yellow or white gold, the case measures a refined 38mm in diameter, a subtle increase of 2mm from the original quartz-powered model, enhancing its presence on the wrist while maintaining a sense of classic proportion.
The yellow gold reference offers the most direct and evocative link to Carlo Crocco’s seminal creation. Its case and bezel are expertly finished with a combination of polished and satin surfaces, framing a deep matte black lacquered dial. The dial proudly displays the gold-pad printed MDM signature and the essential date aperture at 3 o’clock. Complementing this warm aesthetic is a cooler white gold iteration. This model boasts a profusion of brightly polished surfaces, contrasted by twelve black-plated titanium screws that punctuate the bezel. Its dial, crafted from polished black onyx, introduces a distinct textural richness to the familiar composition. The subtle silver MDM signature at 6 o’clock serves as a poignant nod to Hublot’s formative years.
Evolving Excellence: 46 Years of Refinement and Innovation
While the design ethos remains deeply rooted in the past, 46 years of horological evolution are demonstrably present in the Classic Fusion Tributo. The watch is now equipped with a larger screw-down crown, significantly enhancing its water resistance to an impressive 100 meters. The twelve screws adorning the bezel, still serving as hour markers, retain their original domed profile but are now meticulously crafted with Hublot’s signature H-shaped polished titanium screws. This distinctive H-shape is also echoed in the counterweight of the central seconds hand, creating a subtle yet cohesive design element.
A pivotal upgrade in the Tributo collection is the incorporation of an automatic manufacture movement. The HUB1711 calibre, developed in collaboration with sister brand Zenith, is based on the highly regarded Elite 670 calibre. This automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4Hz and boasts an extended power reserve of 60 hours, offering enhanced performance and reliability. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, the meticulously finished movement is visible. The openworked rotor, shaped like Hublot’s iconic H, is presented in 22k yellow gold for the yellow gold model and in black tungsten for the white gold version, adding a touch of bespoke luxury to each timepiece.
Notably, the Classic Fusion Tributo deliberately omits Hublot’s contemporary "One Click" strap-changing system. This considered omission is a deliberate choice to preserve the authentic construction and aesthetic integrity of the original 1980 design. Even after 46 years, the foundational principles of Crocco’s creation have proven remarkably resilient and timeless. As Carlo Crocco himself proudly stated, this design "may not be eternal, but it’s pretty close!"
A Legacy of Philanthropy: The Main dans la Main (MDM) Foundation
Carlo Crocco’s entrepreneurial journey took a significant turn when he sold the Hublot brand to LVMH in 2008. Since then, his primary focus has shifted to his philanthropic endeavors. He dedicates his time and resources to the Fondazione Main dans la Main (MDM Foundation), an organization he established in 1998. This foundation is committed to supporting humanitarian and educational initiatives aimed at empowering vulnerable children and communities worldwide.
In a touching reconnection with the brand’s origins, Hublot’s CEO, Julian Tornare, recently sought Crocco’s counsel as a consultant for the new Classic Fusion Tributo models. Recognizing Crocco’s invaluable contribution and enduring influence, Hublot has pledged a significant donation of CHF 100,000 to his MDM foundation. This gesture underscores the deep respect and appreciation the brand holds for its founder and his lifelong commitment to social responsibility.
Investment in Heritage: Pricing and Availability
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo collection is now available at select Hublot authorized dealers worldwide and through the brand’s official online channels. Each of the two gold references is priced at CHF 25,000, EUR 30,200, USD 30,900, or GBP 23,600. The collection is not limited in production, suggesting Hublot’s intention to offer this homage to its foundational design for an extended period. This accessibility, combined with the brand’s established reputation, is likely to appeal to both long-time collectors and new admirers of Hublot’s rich history. The brand anticipates that these gold iterations will serve as a prelude to future editions potentially released in more accessible metals, further broadening the appeal of this iconic design. Further details and inquiries can be directed to hublot.com.
