The horological landscape is perpetually dynamic, with vintage timepieces surfacing through auctions, private sales, and dealer listings, each telling a unique story of craftsmanship, design, and historical significance. This week’s "What’s Selling Where" column from Hodinkee delves into a curated selection of watches that have recently garnered attention, ranging from robust dive watches to iconic chronographs, each offering a distinct entry point into the world of collectible timepieces. The assortment highlights the diverse tastes and evolving market trends within the watch community, from utilitarian tool watches to aesthetically avant-garde designs.
Market Pulse and Previous Picks
The current market activity sees a mixed bag of outcomes for previously highlighted pieces. The Hermès Caleche has successfully found a new owner, indicating a healthy demand for certain luxury fashion-associated timepieces. Conversely, the Angelus chronograph did not meet its reserve, suggesting that while interest in vintage chronographs remains strong, specific examples require careful market positioning and pricing. The Rolex GMT Master II SARU and the Bulova White Prince continue to be available, presenting ongoing opportunities for discerning collectors. The impending Goldberger collection auction looms large, poised to inject significant energy and value into the market, underscoring the continued strength of high-profile vintage watch sales.
A Dive into Vintage Treasures
The exploration of available timepieces commences with a notable offering for those with an inclination towards challenging restorations or unique projects. A Heuer 3647T Carrera, presented with a missing outer seconds track, serves as a testament to the intricate nature of vintage watch restoration. The outer seconds track on this model is not merely decorative but functions as a tension ring, essential for securing the dial. The rarity of this component makes its replacement a significant undertaking, appealing to horological enthusiasts who embrace the pursuit of the seemingly impossible. This speaks to a niche within the collecting community that values rarity and the technical challenge of bringing a timepiece back to its former glory.
Further underscoring the breadth of vintage watch collecting, a Tudor Ranger is presented as an alternative for those seeking a specific model that was previously highlighted. The availability of such pieces encourages collectors to actively pursue specific references rather than settling for readily available alternatives. This proactive approach is a hallmark of dedicated collectors.
For the truly eclectic collector, a "Pigeon Timer" surfaces, a horological oddity that exemplifies the diverse functionalities and designs that have emerged throughout watchmaking history. These specialized timepieces, often developed for specific professional or sporting applications, add a layer of historical intrigue and unique appeal to any collection.
A Movado M90 chronograph is also brought to attention, with a caveat regarding its condition. The current bid of $3,750 raises questions about its value, particularly given potential authenticity concerns with the dial. This scenario highlights the critical importance of due diligence and expert assessment when evaluating vintage watches, especially those with apparent inconsistencies or signs of significant restoration. The author’s direct appeal to experts for commentary in the comments section underscores the collaborative and knowledge-sharing nature of the watch community.
The Rise of the Mega-Divers and the Universal Genève Unisonic-Sub
A significant theme emerging from the current market analysis is the growing appreciation for "Mega-Divers" – watches characterized by their substantial size and extreme water resistance ratings. These timepieces, often exceeding 1000 meters, represent the pinnacle of dive watch engineering and design from their respective eras. Examples like the Jenny and Aquadive models, along with Zodiac Super Sea Wolfs, exemplify this category. The author posits that experiencing these robust instruments is a crucial step in understanding one’s own horological preferences and commitment level. The sheer presence and functionality of these watches demand a certain dedication from the wearer, often requiring conscious effort to avoid accidental impacts due to their considerable dimensions.
In this context, the Universal Genève Unisonic-Sub emerges as a noteworthy contender. This particular example, offered by Plus Ultra, presents a compelling blend of design and historical significance. Measuring a substantial 43mm, this watch is powered by a tuning-fork quartz movement, similar to those found in Accutrons of the era. While this necessitates a more frequent battery replacement and potentially a specialized watchmaker for servicing, the Unisonic-Sub’s aesthetic appeal is undeniable.
The watch boasts a striking bright blue bezel, vibrant blaze-orange hands that contrast sharply with the black dial, and a distinctive tetradecagonal bezel ring. The inclusion of a Gay Frères bracelet further elevates its desirability, as this manufacturer is renowned for producing some of the finest watch bracelets of the mid-20th century. Crucially, this example comes complete with its original box and papers, a significant factor in its collectibility and value. The tonneau shape, while potentially an acquired taste, contributes to the watch’s imposing presence. The author suggests that wearing such a watch offers a unique satisfaction, providing a sense of capability that surpasses the wearer’s own limitations. Currently listed at CHF 3,800, the Universal Genève Unisonic-Sub represents a bold statement piece for collectors seeking both historical depth and striking visual appeal.
Longines Comet: A Study in Mystery Dials
The Longines Comet, available through Hashtag Watch Co., offers a fascinating glimpse into the evolution of "mystery dials" in watchmaking. While classic mystery dials from the 1950s featured transparent rotating discs with single dots or markers to indicate time, the Comet adopts a slightly different approach. This late 1960s/early 1970s interpretation utilizes a prominent central arrow to point to the hour, while a smaller, lumed dot on the outer track signifies the minutes.
Reading the time on such a dial requires a period of adjustment and conscious effort. The author notes that the initial attempts to decipher the time can be perplexing, highlighting the subtle yet significant departure from conventional time-telling methods. The Comet’s movement, a manual Longines Caliber 702, is described as functional but not exceptional. The watch’s case, with its curved rectangularity, is a matter of personal aesthetic preference, but the example on offer appears to be in excellent condition.
The dial itself, particularly its bright yellow hue, is the undeniable star of the show. The article notes that the Comet was also produced in red and a greenish-blue, although specific rarity data for each color is not readily available. The yellow variant is presented as a watch capable of lifting one’s spirits, serving as a bright distraction from daily doldrums. Hashtag Watch Co. is offering this full-set Longines Comet for $2,450. While this price point may be considered slightly ambitious, the rarity of a complete set with box and papers likely justifies the asking price, as comparable examples are scarce.
Omega Seamaster Ref. 2576 with Breguet Numerals: A Timeless Classic
Jones Horan presents an exceptional Omega Seamaster reference 2576, distinguished by its applied Breguet numerals. Introduced in 1949, this particular example, bearing a 12 million serial number, places it within the model’s inaugural year, a fact that adds to its historical significance given its remarkable condition.
The presence of radium lume on the dial, indicated by the absence of a "T" marking at the bottom, suggests a timepiece from an era when such luminous materials were standard. The lack of significant dial spotting, often associated with prolonged stillness of the hands, implies that this watch has likely been worn regularly, preventing such degradation. Alternatively, the hands might have been relumed, though the listing by Jones Horan, known for its scrupulous attention to detail, does not indicate this.
The dial, adorned with applied Breguet numerals, is described as "gorgeous." The author humorously notes the stylistic preference for the later "coat hanger S" Seamaster script over the earlier version present on this watch, acknowledging that sometimes the "perfect" iteration of a beloved model is unattainable.
The watch’s case, featuring the robust "Beefy Lug" construction characteristic of early Seamasters, appears to have undergone a light polish, a detail that the author advises potential buyers to consider. However, based on the provided images, the case does not exhibit excessive shininess, which is often a detrimental fate for vintage Seamasters. The overall impression is that of a remarkably well-preserved example. This Omega 2576 is scheduled for auction on the 30th, with an estimated pre-sale value of $400-$700. Should it remain within this range, it represents an extraordinary opportunity for collectors to acquire a historically significant and aesthetically pleasing timepiece at a potentially bargain price.
Porsche Design Chronograph 1: A Modern Icon Reimagined
The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 stands as a celebrated icon of 1970s watch design, renowned for its distinctive PVD-coated case and the robust Valjoux 7750 movement. Its influence is evident in subsequent reissues and limited editions, and its presence in popular culture, such as in films like Top Gun, has cemented its legendary status.
A particularly intriguing example is currently available on auction through Goodwill. The key differentiator of this specific Chronograph 1 lies in its subdial configuration. The 24-hour indicator at 12 o’clock and the central white lollipop hand, which serves as the minute counter, signify that this is a later model, produced post-1975 and powered by the Lemania 5100 movement. This movement is highly regarded for its robustness and functionality, often featuring a 24-hour indicator and a central minute counter.
While this particular example exhibits wear on its case and bracelet, with some PVD coating loss and a crystal in need of replacement, its underlying appeal remains strong. The author emphasizes that, despite these imperfections, the opportunity to own a piece of horological history with a design that remains remarkably contemporary is significant. The auction is scheduled to conclude next Tuesday evening, with current bids standing at a modest $333.33. This presents a compelling entry point for collectors interested in acquiring a piece of automotive and watchmaking history.
The Zenith El Primero A386: The Pinnacle of Chronograph Design
Concluding the selection is the Zenith El Primero A386, unequivocally described by the author as "the Most Beautiful Chronograph Ever Made." This sentiment stems from the El Primero’s rich history, its technical prowess, and its enduring aesthetic appeal. The El Primero movement, developed by Charles Vermot, was one of the first integrated automatic chronograph movements, a significant achievement that not only saved Zenith from near extinction but also played a pivotal role in the evolution of Rolex’s chronograph offerings.
The specific A386 example offered by Wind Vintage is presented as a time capsule. The watch exhibits pristine case bevels, immaculate brushing, and a flawless dial, suggesting minimal wear over its nearly 60-year existence. The inclusion of the original Gay Frères ladder bracelet further enhances its desirability and collectibility.
The author highlights several aspects that make the El Primero so coveted: its historical significance as an early automatic chronograph movement, its high-beat frequency (36,000 vibrations per hour), and its robust, integrated construction. These technical merits, combined with the A386’s iconic tri-color dial and distinctive case shape, create a timepiece that is both historically important and aesthetically captivating.
Wind Vintage is offering this exceptional Zenith El Primero A386 for $29,000. While a significant investment, the watch’s condition and provenance arguably justify the price. For those seeking a more accessible entry into the El Primero family, an A3817 model, requiring some restoration work on its crystal, pushers, and crown, is also available through ShopGoodwill. This offering underscores the varied market for El Primero models, catering to both pristine collectors and those with an interest in refurbishment projects. The continued availability and desirability of these iconic timepieces underscore their lasting impact on the watch industry and the enduring passion they inspire among collectors worldwide.
