In the hallowed halls of haute horlogerie, where precision meets artistry and heritage intertwines with innovation, the "Twelve on Time" series delves into the personal philosophies of industry leaders. This installment features Wilhelm Schmid, the esteemed CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, a man whose vision guides one of Germany’s most revered watchmaking houses. Through a series of twelve probing questions, Schmid offers a rare glimpse into his multifaceted relationship with time, the creative process, and the intricate craft that defines his life’s work. His perspective not only illuminates his individual journey but also provides a deeper understanding of the culture of watchmaking, a realm steeped in precision, legacy, and profound emotion.
The Genesis of a Passion: The Lange 1 and the Dawn of a New Era
Schmid’s initial encounter with a watch that fundamentally altered his perception of watchmaking points directly to the re-emergence of A. Lange & Söhne in 1994. The unveiling of the first four modern Lange timepieces marked a pivotal moment, particularly for German watch enthusiasts. Among these, the Lange 1 stood out as a revolutionary creation, a departure from anything seen before. "For a German watch enthusiast, the first four Lange watches of the modern era, unveiled in 1994, were, of course, truly remarkable," Schmid recalls. "The Lange 1 was unlike anything that had ever existed before. It was definitely a watch that I found absolutely fascinating and would have loved to own, but couldn’t afford at the time." This profound admiration for the Lange 1’s innovative design and technical prowess eventually led him to acquire one a decade later, solidifying its place as a personal benchmark in watchmaking excellence. The Lange 1’s asymmetrical dial, the distinctive outsize date, and the elegant power reserve indicator were not merely aesthetic choices; they were a testament to a new design language that prioritized clarity, functionality, and an unmistakable sense of proprietary identity.
The Quintessence of a Timepiece: Legibility and Emotional Resonance
When asked about the quality he values most in a watch, Schmid’s answer is immediate and clear: legibility. This, he explains, is not a superficial concern but a direct consequence of a meticulously balanced interplay between design and functionality. "Legibility. And this derives from a well-balanced combination of design and functionality," he states. Beyond mere readability, Schmid emphasizes the emotional impact a watch should have. "For me, a watch should also evoke a certain feeling. It should bring me a little joy every time I look at my wrist." This sentiment underscores a core tenet of A. Lange & Söhne’s philosophy – that a watch is more than a mere instrument; it is an object of art that should foster a personal connection and deliver daily satisfaction. The pursuit of legibility at Lange is evident in the brand’s consistent use of clear, contrasting dial elements, well-proportioned hands, and thoughtfully placed indicators, ensuring that vital information is always accessible at a glance, even in complex timepieces.
A Fascination with Function: The Chronograph’s Dynamic Appeal
Schmid’s favorite complication is the chronograph, a choice that reflects his appreciation for dynamic functionality and immediate engagement. "I love chronographs because there’s always something happening on the dial," he explains. He contrasts this with complications like the perpetual calendar or moon phase, which operate on longer, less immediately perceptible cycles. "Unlike a perpetual calendar, which only operates at midnight, or a moon phase display, which operates more slowly, you can operate the chronograph function yourself, and it happens instantly. I think it’s a brilliant complication that you can use regularly and that makes a watch really exciting." This preference for an interactive complication speaks to a desire for a tangible connection with the mechanical workings of a watch. The ability to initiate, stop, and reset the chronograph at will provides a direct experience of the intricate engineering housed within the case, transforming the act of timekeeping into an engaging, almost playful, interaction. A. Lange & Söhne’s own chronograph offerings, such as the Datograph and the Double Split, exemplify the brand’s mastery of this complex complication, showcasing its commitment to both technical excellence and user engagement.
Challenging Modern Trends: The Tyranny of Size
In a watch industry often characterized by a relentless pursuit of larger case diameters, Schmid voices a critique of this prevalent trend. He believes that there is an undue emphasis on size, often at the expense of a watch’s suitability for the individual wearer. "There is too much emphasis on size and not enough on finding out whether the watch suits one’s wrist and personality," he observes. This perspective highlights a move away from a one-size-fits-all approach towards a more personalized appreciation of horological aesthetics. The proliferation of oversized watches in recent decades, driven by market demand and a perceived need for greater wrist presence, has sometimes overshadowed the importance of proportion and individual fit. Schmid’s view suggests a return to a more nuanced understanding of watch design, where the harmony between the timepiece and its wearer is paramount.
The Unseen Craftsmanship: The Movement as a Testament to Care
The hallmark of a watch crafted with genuine care, according to Schmid, lies in the meticulous attention to detail, particularly within the movement. "That’s very easy! Just turn the watch around," he advises. "If the movement fits the case, at least you know that the fundamentals are right. Ideally, the parts that aren’t visible should be finished too." This points to a philosophy where excellence is not just superficial but extends to every component, whether it is seen by the wearer or not. For A. Lange & Söhne, this commitment is deeply ingrained in their manufacturing process. The brand is renowned for its exquisite movement finishing, employing techniques such as Glashütte ribbing, perlage, and hand-engraved balance cocks. This dedication to finishing even the hidden parts of a watch serves as a tangible demonstration of the brand’s unwavering pursuit of perfection and its respect for the horological arts.
The Quartz Crisis: A Catalyst for Change
Reflecting on the moments that have most fundamentally shaped modern watchmaking, Schmid identifies the quartz crisis of the 1970s and 1980s as a watershed event. "The quartz crisis! Until that moment, there had been a clear correlation between accuracy and price. And that changed with the introduction of the quartz movement, which was much less expensive and much more precise than any mechanical watch. Mechanical watches became more of an expression of personality than a tool, having outlived their usefulness." The advent of affordable and highly accurate quartz movements challenged the dominance of mechanical watchmaking, forcing the industry to re-evaluate its value proposition. This period, while tumultuous, ultimately spurred a renewed focus on the intrinsic qualities of mechanical watches – their craftsmanship, heritage, and emotional resonance – rather than solely their functional utility. This shift paved the way for the resurgence of mechanical watchmaking as a luxury good and an art form.
Navigating the Future: Challenges and Strategies for A. Lange & Söhne
Schmid addresses the contemporary challenges facing A. Lange & Söhne with strategic foresight, outlining three key areas of focus. The first challenge revolves around connecting the brand’s secluded manufacturing base in Glashütte with its global clientele. "80 per cent of our employees live and work in the Glashütte region, whereas all of our customers live elsewhere. That’s why the first goal is to connect these two worlds and to ensure that we remain relevant." To address this, the brand has expanded its network of boutiques, creating immersive spaces where customers can experience the intricate details of their timepieces firsthand and engage with the brand’s unique narrative.
The second challenge involves maintaining the brand’s discreet allure while communicating its value in an era of global uncertainty. "Many of our customers wear our watches during these uncertain times because they are perceived as beautiful and valuable, but also discreet. Therefore, we must ensure that we remain a secret brand while sharing this secret with the right people." This delicate balance reflects a strategy of targeted communication, aiming to connect with discerning individuals who appreciate the brand’s understated elegance and profound quality.
Finally, Schmid emphasizes the imperative of engaging the next generation of collectors. "Our work can only be appreciated if people know about it. We need to connect with the next generation of watch buyers, who are in their twenties today, and earn their appreciation." This forward-looking objective underscores the brand’s commitment to cultivating future enthusiasts and ensuring the longevity of its horological artistry. The brand’s efforts in digital communication, educational content, and targeted collaborations are all part of this long-term vision to inspire a new wave of appreciation for high-end mechanical watchmaking.
Timeless Inspiration: The Influence of Classic Cars
Schmid’s passion for horology is intertwined with his deep admiration for classic automobiles. As a self-proclaimed "petrolhead," he finds significant inspiration in the timeless beauty and enduring appeal of vintage cars. "As I consider myself a petrolhead, I’m very much inspired by classic cars," he states. "What I find fascinating is that when we look at these historic automobiles, we can’t help but smile and say, ‘Wow, they’re beautiful’, even though we know they’re unsafe, but we don’t really mind. It’s truly remarkable that timeless beauty still sparks passion today." This analogy highlights a core principle in design: the power of enduring aesthetics to transcend functional limitations and evoke strong emotional responses. The elegance of a classic car, much like a perfectly crafted watch, lies in its form, its engineering, and the emotional connection it fosters. This appreciation for timeless design is a guiding principle for A. Lange & Söhne, which consistently produces timepieces that are both technically advanced and aesthetically enduring.
The Unrivaled Creation: A Nod to the Lange 1
When asked which watch he wishes he had created, Schmid’s response is unequivocal: the Lange 1. "The Lange 1," he declares. "For me, it’s one of those watches that simply stands out from everything that’s been launched over the last fifty years." He places it in esteemed company, suggesting its inclusion in any list of the most important watches of the modern era, alongside icons like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. This high praise underscores the Lange 1’s status not just as a flagship model for A. Lange & Söhne, but as a true landmark in contemporary watch design. Its innovative dial layout, the ingenious mechanism for the outsize date, and its distinctive aesthetic have cemented its legacy as a watch that redefined expectations and continues to inspire awe.
The Constant Companion: The Odysseus Chronograph
In his personal life, Schmid’s choice of timepiece is consistent and practical: the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph. "I always wear watches, and most of the time, even in my personal life, I wear the Odysseus Chronograph," he reveals. This preference for a robust and versatile sports watch, equipped with a chronograph complication, speaks to a functional yet refined sensibility. The Odysseus, introduced in 2019, marked A. Lange & Söhne’s foray into the luxury sports watch segment, blending the brand’s signature finishing and technical prowess with a more contemporary and durable design. Its popularity among collectors and its adoption by Schmid himself further solidify its position as a modern icon of the brand.
Mentorship and Vision: The Pillars of A. Lange & Söhne’s Success
Schmid credits two key figures within A. Lange & Söhne for shaping his understanding of the brand’s unique approach to watchmaking: Tino Bobe, Director of Manufacturing, and Anthony de Haas, Director of Product Development. "Right from the start, our Director of Manufacturing, Tino Bobe, and our Director of Product Development, Anthony de Haas, played an incredibly important role in helping me understand how we do things and why our approach differs from that of others," he acknowledges. Their guidance and expertise have been instrumental in helping Schmid navigate the complexities of A. Lange & Söhne’s intricate operations and distinctive philosophy. This emphasis on the collaborative spirit and the deep-seated knowledge within the company highlights the human element at the heart of A. Lange & Söhne’s enduring success.
Advice for Aspiring Collectors: The Wisdom of Patience and Desire
For younger collectors embarking on their horological journeys, Schmid offers a simple yet profound piece of advice: prioritize genuine desire over fleeting trends or compromise. "Only buy what you really want," he urges. "If you can’t afford something right now, wait until you can. Don’t go for second best from your wish list." This philosophy encourages a more considered and meaningful approach to collecting, emphasizing the long-term satisfaction of acquiring pieces that truly resonate with one’s personal taste and aspirations, rather than succumbing to the pressure of acquiring numerous watches that may not hold lasting appeal. This advice, rooted in patience and self-awareness, is a testament to the enduring value of thoughtful acquisition in the world of luxury watches.
