The world of horology is often characterized by legacy brands with centuries of history. However, new entrants are increasingly finding their voice by infusing personal narratives and cultural heritage into their creations. Auret, a nascent Swiss-made watch brand founded in Colombia, is making its mark with its inaugural collection, the Mederi. Far from a conventional "here’s our first watch" introduction, Auret’s approach is deeply human, rooted in the profound observation of time as our most precious and irretrievable asset – a perspective keenly felt by its founder, an oncologist by profession. The Mederi collection, conceived in Colombia and meticulously developed with Swiss watchmaking expertise, presents a compelling fusion of design philosophy, cultural representation, and mechanical integrity.
The genesis of Auret and the Mederi collection stems from a deeply philosophical underpinning. Time, the founder recognized, is the ultimate equalizer and the most finite resource. This realization, amplified by a career spent understanding the delicate balance of life and mortality, inspired a watch that transcends mere timekeeping. The Mederi is not intended as a cold, utilitarian instrument but as a tangible reminder to be present, to savor each moment as it passes. This profound concept could easily lean towards the somber, yet Auret has masterfully imbued the Mederi with enough visual character and artistic flair to ensure it remains engaging and aesthetically captivating. Entering the market at a competitive price point, Auret understands that design and concept must speak volumes, and in the Mederi, there is indeed a great deal to discuss.
A Dodecagonal Tapestry: The Geometry of Time
The Auret Mederi immediately distinguishes itself through its deliberate geometric choices. The brand’s emblem subtly incorporates an "R" designed to evoke the number 12, a number Auret identifies as a conceptual cornerstone. This symbolism is woven into the very fabric of the watch, commencing with its 12-sided bezel. This dodecagonal form is not merely an aesthetic flourish; it is a physical manifestation of Auret’s design philosophy. The 12 hours of day, 12 hours of night, the 12 months of the year, and the 12 signs of the zodiac all converge into this distinct shape. Auret intentionally eschews traditional watchmaking vernacular, opting instead for a silhouette that aims to become an enduring visual signature. This architectural outline lends a unique personality to the 40mm stainless steel case, setting it apart from the ubiquitous round forms that dominate the market.
This thoughtful design extends to the dial, where the Mederi truly transcends convention. Auret has developed a unique concentric guilloché pattern, characterized by wave-like ripples emanating from the dial’s center. This intricate engraving is a poetic representation of time’s passage, with each second visualized as a ripple expanding outward from the present moment. Crucially, this is not a superficial printed decoration. The brand specifies a remarkable 2mm line depth, imbuing the dial’s surface with significant physical presence and texture. The visual dynamism is further amplified by a fumé gradient, a sophisticated darkening effect that transitions from the dial’s richest hue at the center to a deep black at the periphery. Available in black, blue, and burgundy, this gradient ensures that each version possesses a distinct personality, shifting and transforming as light plays across its surfaces. The effect is so pronounced that the dial appears to possess an inherent sense of movement, even when the hands are at a standstill, a testament to Auret’s success in translating its conceptual ideas into a tangible, captivating reality.
Swiss Precision Meets Colombian Soul: The Mechanics and Heritage
Beneath the meticulously crafted exterior, the Auret Mederi houses a robust Swiss automatic movement. The brand has selected the Sellita SW260 D4 caliber, a reliable engine known for its precision and durability. This movement offers a 41-hour power reserve and features hours, minutes, and a small seconds sub-dial, providing essential timekeeping functions. Auret has opted for the highest level of finishing available from Sellita for this caliber. This includes exquisite perlage (circular graining) on the mainplate and bridges, snailing (a spiral pattern) on the barrel and winding notches, polished nickel-plated surfaces, and blued screws. While the custom rotor is undoubtedly the visual centerpiece, this attention to detail in the underlying mechanics ensures that the horological aspect of the Mederi is as considered and refined as its aesthetic.
The true cultural heart of the Mederi is revealed when one flips the watch over to admire its case back. Through the sapphire crystal, a custom brass rotor takes center stage, intricately designed to resemble the Colombian coffee flower. This choice is a deliberate and sophisticated way of showcasing the brand’s heritage, moving beyond superficial nationalistic symbols. The coffee flower, an organic and visually appealing element, provides a genuine connection to Auret’s origins in Colombia. This is a far more nuanced and engaging form of cultural representation than simply emblazoning a flag or country name onto the timepiece. It signifies a deeper integration of identity, allowing the watch to tell a story that is both personal and national.
Design, Craftsmanship, and Value Proposition
The case of the Mederi is crafted from 316L stainless steel, a robust and widely respected material in watchmaking. Measuring 40mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug distance of 46mm and a slim thickness of 10.5mm, the dimensions are well-proportioned for a wide range of wrist sizes. The case features a sophisticated interplay of polished and brushed surfaces, accentuating its architectural form and the distinctiveness of the 12-sided bezel. Both the front and case back are protected by scratch-resistant sapphire crystals. Furthermore, the Mederi is built for everyday wearability, boasting 100 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown, ensuring its resilience against the elements and the rigors of daily life.
Auret has also paid close attention to the details that enhance the ownership experience. The Mederi is supplied with two strap options: a dial-matching leather strap with a comfortable rubber lining, and an additional fabric strap with a leather lining. Both are fitted with custom stainless steel buckles that bear the brand’s distinctive 12-inspired symbol. The inclusion of quick-release pins further simplifies strap changes, eliminating the need for specialized tools. These seemingly small considerations contribute significantly to the overall value proposition of the Mederi, especially given its price point.
At €1,750 (approximately $1,890 USD, subject to exchange rates), the Auret Mederi enters a highly competitive segment of the mechanical watch market. This price bracket is often characterized by established brands offering a wide array of options, making it challenging for newcomers to gain traction. However, Auret’s strategy of embedding a deep-seated identity and cultural narrative into its debut collection provides a distinct advantage. While many watches in this price range may focus on technical specifications or established brand prestige, the Mederi offers something increasingly sought after: a compelling story and a unique aesthetic that resonates on a more personal level.
A Coherent Vision for the Future
The Auret Mederi stands out as a compelling debut precisely because of its coherence. It is not a collection of disparate elements but a carefully curated narrative where each component—from the Colombian origins and the coffee-flower rotor to the 12-sided bezel and the rippling guilloché dial—contributes to a unified story. This thematic consistency is arguably more impactful than revolutionary innovation in individual features. Auret is not attempting to reinvent watchmaking; instead, it is offering a fresh perspective, grounded in personal identity and cultural appreciation.
The implications of Auret’s approach are significant. In a market saturated with similar designs, brands that can articulate a unique identity and connect with consumers on an emotional level are likely to thrive. If Auret can build upon this strong visual language and its Colombian connection, the Mederi collection has the potential to be the first chapter in a highly compelling horological journey. The collection is slated to become available starting in November 2026, offering potential buyers ample time to anticipate its arrival.
The question remains: does this understated yet profound method of paying homage to the brand’s identity resonate more effectively than a more overt approach? Would enthusiasts be interested in further explorations from Auret that continue to weave together Swiss craftsmanship with distinct cultural narratives? The response from the watch community to the Mederi will undoubtedly shape Auret’s trajectory, but with such a thoughtfully conceived and beautifully executed debut, the future looks promising for this innovative new brand.
