In early April 2026, Kudoke unveiled the Tremblage versions of the Kudoke 1 and 2 models from the Handwerk collection, showcasing a revival of intricate, centuries-old hand-engraving techniques on their leading timepieces. These eye-catching dials, adorned with the distinctive tremblage finish, represent a significant artistic and technical achievement for the independent watchmaker, Stefan Kudoke.
The Art of Tremblage: A Unique Decorative Technique
The tremblage technique, a cornerstone of haute horlogerie decoration, is distinguished by its creation of a uniform yet seemingly chaotic texture on the dial’s surface. Unlike other engraving methods that produce clearly structured images, such as the figurative motifs of classical techniques or the precise geometric ornaments of guilloché, tremblage is achieved by repeatedly traversing the surface with an oscillating burin in various directions. This labor-intensive process, demanding exceptional skill and considerable time from the engraver, results in a subtly textured finish that can subtly shift in appearance with changes in light and angle.
The inherent difficulty and time commitment associated with tremblage mean that only a select few watch brands practice this demanding art form. A. Lange & Söhne, a pioneer in bringing this technique to modern watchmaking, first showcased it on limited-edition models within its Handwerkskunst line. The inaugural piece to feature tremblage was the Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite” Handwerkskunst Ref. 761.050, released in 2011 with a production run of only 15 units.
A Growing Pantheon of Tremblage Artisans
Following A. Lange & Söhne’s lead, other esteemed watchmakers have embraced the tremblage technique, each bringing their unique interpretation to the craft. Moritz Grossmann, a neighboring manufacture in Glashütte, introduced its Tremblage series in 2021. Utilizing a nickel silver dial, their tremblage engraving produces unpredictable color shifts as the metal develops a characteristic patina. Moritz Grossmann’s commitment to this decorative style has led to an expansion of its Tremblage line, now encompassing at least four core designs: the Backpage Tremblage, the Tourbillon Tremblage, the Tremblage Gold (including a platinum variant), and the Tremblage Green. The increasing visibility of these models online suggests a growing appreciation for their distinctive aesthetic.
The "tremblage club" has steadily expanded in recent years. Gröne Oldenzaal, a sub-brand of Grönefeld, joined the ranks in 2024 with its Manueel One watches. In 2025, Armin Strom introduced the Armin Strom es Revolution Dual Time GMT Resonance “Tremblage” watch, a limited edition reportedly of just five pieces. The latest addition to this exclusive group is Kudoke, with its 2026 release of tremblage-finished versions of the Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 models.
Stefan Kudoke’s Ingenious Approach to Tremblage
Stefan Kudoke, known for his ability to deliver collector-grade watches at accessible price points, has devised a clever strategy to incorporate the complex tremblage decoration into his timepieces. His approach is multi-faceted, focusing on efficiency and aesthetic impact.
Firstly, Kudoke utilizes a brass plate as the dial base, rather than more costly solid gold or German silver. This allows for a cost-effective foundation for the intricate engraving. Secondly, the design is based on a flat plate that is subsequently electroplated and fitted with appliqués. This construction method means that the areas adjacent to the appliqués do not require absolute precision right up to the edge, as the margins of the engraved area are concealed beneath these applied elements. This streamlines the engraving process significantly.
Crucially, Kudoke employs a serrated burin for the engraving. This specialized tool allows him to achieve a consistent tremblage texture much more rapidly than with traditional methods, making the decoration feasible for his production scale. His primary focus remains on maximizing the visual impact of the tremblage, ensuring a substantial and compelling finish on the dial.
Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 Tremblage Editions: A Stylistic Departure
The tremblage dials on the Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 models offer a unique aesthetic, lending the watches a look that transcends typical decorative timepieces. The matte finish achieved through tremblage imbues these watches with a subtle, almost military-inspired character, presenting a departure from overtly ornate or "sugary" decorative styles. This creates an effect that is both austere and refined.
Kudoke offers the Kudoke 1 Tremblage in three distinct versions: gold-plated, rhodium-plated, and black rhodium-plated dials. All three variations are compelling, but the versions featuring blued hands are particularly noteworthy. These blued hands, with their classic spade-and-whip shapes, add an archaic and fitting touch. These hand styles, which first appeared in the late 18th century, were notably used by prominent watchmakers such as John Arnold in the 1770s.
The double-ended hour hand on the Kudoke 1, designed by Stefan Kudoke to evoke the infinity symbol, also draws a parallel to the traditional double-spade hour hand found on half-hunter pocket watches. This stylistic connection adds another layer of historical depth to the design.
In the Kudoke 1 Tremblage, the main dial is complemented by a small seconds subdial positioned at the 9 o’clock position. The Kudoke 2 Tremblage, meanwhile, integrates the tremblage dial with a day/night indicator, showcasing the brand’s ability to combine intricate decoration with functional complications.
The Foundation: Kudoke’s Kaliber 1 Movement
The appeal of watches from independent, creative brands often extends to their movements, which frequently offer a unique alternative to mass-produced calibers. Kudoke’s Handwerk collection, including the new Tremblage editions, is built around its proprietary Kaliber 1 movement. This caliber stands apart from industrial, mass-produced options, representing a deliberate choice for exclusivity and artisanal craftsmanship.
The design of Kaliber 1 is immediately distinctive, with its roots tracing back to an antique English pocket watch caliber from the 19th century that Stefan Kudoke acquired. The movement’s architectural style, particularly its central balance cock, is reminiscent of designs that emerged in the late 18th century. During that era, English watchmakers like John Arnold and Thomas Earnshaw began to move away from the ornate Baroque balance cocks in favor of a simpler, stepped trapezoidal balance cock, reflecting the aesthetic sensibilities of the burgeoning Industrial Revolution.
The central balance cock of Kudoke’s Kaliber 1, elevated slightly above the symmetrical backplate and flanked by the crown wheel and ratchet wheel, is a defining characteristic. Its origins are not immediately apparent without deeper investigation, highlighting the caliber’s unique historical lineage.
The Ingenious Legacy of the Valjoux 7750
The development of Kudoke’s Kaliber 1 is intrinsically linked to a broader trend among independent watchmakers seeking to create their own distinct calibers, often by repurposing elements of well-established movements. This strategy gained traction in the 2000s, partly in response to Swatch Group’s announcement in 2002 to cease supplying ébauches to external companies.
Austrian watchmaker Richard Habring, renowned for his adaptations of the Eta/Valjoux 7750 chronograph caliber, took a proactive approach. He decided to develop his own caliber based on the fundamental structure of the 7750, whose intellectual property rights had long expired since its introduction in 1972. Habring’s innovation lay in utilizing the core kinematics of the 7750, stripped of its chronograph and self-winding mechanisms. This resulted in the A11 caliber, his unique interpretation of a basic movement derived from the 7750’s foundational architecture.
Richard Habring was not alone in this endeavor. Japanese entrepreneur Naoya Hida, founder of his eponymous brand in 2018, also relies on a stripped-down 7750 as the basis for his movements. Around 2018, Stefan Kudoke began collaborating with Richard Habring, adapting the A11 caliber to his own specifications, incorporating a symmetrical layout and a central balance cock.
The strategic utilization of the "gold remnant" of the 7750 by watchmakers like Habring, Hida, and Kudoke is a testament to the enduring legacy of early 1970s Swiss watchmaking. At that time, the industry had perfected simpler manual-winding calibers, often featuring two or three hands. While automatic winding and chronographs were considered advanced features, the fundamental architecture of simpler calibers provided a robust and adaptable foundation for new creations. It is worth noting that the automatic Rolex Daytona, for instance, did not appear until 1988, sixteen years after the Valjoux 7750’s debut.
Panerai also leveraged a similar approach in the late 1990s, reportedly using a stripped-down 7750 caliber from Soprod to create its three-hand OP III self-winding movement. This choice was driven by the caliber’s inherent feature of a small seconds subdial at the 9 o’clock position, which allowed Panerai to replicate the rugged, military aesthetic established by their earlier Egiziano models featuring the Angelus cal. SF240 movement. This characteristic position of the small seconds was crucial for maintaining the brand’s historical narrative and rugged image, even in more decorative lines like the Sealand.
Kudoke’s Distinctive Vision in Decorative Watchmaking
Within the niche field of watches featuring tremblage finishing, Kudoke’s creations stand out for their uniquely distinctive style. Stefan Kudoke offers a personal vision of decorative timepieces that avoids overwhelming ornamentation, presenting a sophisticated and artful approach to haute horlogerie. The tremblage editions of the Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 exemplify this philosophy, combining intricate historical decoration with modern watchmaking ingenuity and a refined aesthetic sensibility. The preservation of the core mechanical integrity, derived from the fundamental elements of the Valjoux 7750, while focusing on artistic dial treatments, allows Kudoke to offer truly special timepieces that resonate with collectors seeking both heritage and contemporary design.
