Favre Leuba, a brand steeped in horological history dating back to 1737, has unveiled its latest iteration of the Deep Raider Day Date, presenting a compelling two-tone aesthetic that aims to blend sporty functionality with a touch of everyday glamour. This new collection, available in three dial colors – black, blue, and green – seeks to capture the attention of watch enthusiasts who appreciate both robust dive watch capabilities and a sophisticated, yet accessible, luxury appeal. Fratello received early access to both the black and green dial variants, offering a hands-on examination of their design and execution.
The Deep Raider Day Date is the latest addition to Favre Leuba’s contemporary dive watch lineup, which also includes the Deep Raider Revival and Renaissance models. This particular collection draws its lineage from one of Favre Leuba’s most iconic vintage pieces, the Deep Blue, first introduced in 1964. The modern two-tone Deep Raider Day Date successfully marries this historical design ethos with the reliability and technological advancements expected of a modern timepiece. The inclusion of a day-date complication, a feature often regarded as a classic horological amenity, adds a layer of refined functionality, elevated further by the strategic integration of gold-colored elements.
A Closer Look: Design and Craftsmanship
The two-tone Deep Raider Day Date models are housed in a 40mm case crafted from 316L stainless steel, a material chosen for its durability and resistance to corrosion. The case exhibits a refined finish, alternating between brushed and polished surfaces, which enhances its visual depth and tactile appeal. The crown and the unidirectional bezel have been treated with yellow gold PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition), a technique that applies a thin, durable layer of gold alloy onto the stainless steel. This gold-colored treatment extends to the center links of the integrated three-row bracelet, creating a harmonious and eye-catching contrast with the steel. While not solid gold, this PVD application provides a convincing aesthetic of luxury without the prohibitive cost associated with solid precious metals, positioning the watch as an "affordable luxury" option.
The presence of these gold-colored accents imbues the watch with a distinctly different on-wrist presence compared to its all-steel counterparts. It offers a lavish appearance that, according to the brand, remains accessible. The unidirectional bezel, a critical feature for any dive watch, is equipped with a ceramic insert. This insert features a 60-minute dive-time scale, marked with gold-colored numerals that echo the accents found elsewhere on the watch. Despite the added embellishments, the Deep Raider Day Date retains its robust 300-meter (30 ATM) water resistance rating, affirming its status as a highly practical and versatile all-around timepiece, capable of handling professional diving requirements. The design cleverly balances its dive watch origins with a more polished, sophisticated demeanor.
Favre Leuba has also incorporated a practical element for strap enthusiasts: the bracelet can be easily swapped for a strap without the need for specialized tools, offering wearers the flexibility to personalize their watch’s look. This thoughtful design choice further enhances the watch’s versatility, allowing it to transition seamlessly from a sporty dive watch to a more casual or even dressier accessory depending on the chosen strap.
Dial Variations: A Spectrum of Style
The two-tone Deep Raider Day Date is offered with a choice of three distinct dial colors: black, blue, and green. The review focused on the black and green variants, both of which showcase sophisticated finishing techniques. The blue and green dials feature a sunburst and fumé (graduated color) finish, respectively, which contribute to a retro yet contemporary and trendy aesthetic. These finishes play with light, creating dynamic visual effects that enhance the dial’s depth and character. In contrast, the black dial exhibits a more subtle finish, lending the watch a more traditional and utilitarian appearance.
Across all dial colors, the yellow-gold-colored elements are prominently featured. The hour, minute, and second hands are all treated in this precious hue, drawing immediate attention. Favre Leuba’s signature hourglass emblem, positioned at the 6 o’clock mark, also adopts the gold treatment. The elongated hour markers, designed for optimal legibility, and the day-date display located at the 3 o’clock position are consistent with previous iterations of the Day Date models, ensuring continuity and brand recognition.
A notable detail contributing to the dial’s refined execution is its sandwich construction. This design involves a two-part dial, where a layer of luminous material is situated beneath an upper dial surface. This construction not only adds a touch of horological sophistication but also ensures excellent legibility in low-light conditions, a crucial requirement for a dive watch. The luminous material, specified as blue-glowing Super-LumiNova C1 X1, provides the expected glow from a dive watch and is applied to both the hour markers and hands, guaranteeing that time can be read at a glance, even in challenging environments. This attention to detail underscores Favre Leuba’s commitment to quality and thoughtful design in the Deep Raider collection.
The Heart of the Watch: Movement and Functionality
Beneath the solid 316L stainless steel case back, which is adorned with a chemically engraved hourglass emblem and wave pattern, lies the self-winding FLD05 caliber. This movement is based on the reliable Sellita SW220-1, a workhorse movement widely respected in the watchmaking industry for its robustness and accuracy. The FLD05 operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and offers a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. It reliably drives the hours, minutes, seconds, day, and date functions that are prominently displayed on the dial.
The operation of the day-date complication is intuitive and user-friendly. After unscrewing the crown and pulling it out to the first position, the wearer can adjust the date by turning the crown clockwise. To change the day, the crown is turned counterclockwise. An interesting and thoughtful feature is the dual-language option for the day display, typically English and German. The movement is programmed to seamlessly advance the calendar as it progresses, ensuring that the correct day and date are displayed without manual intervention after setting. This attention to detail, particularly the user-friendly day-date adjustment system, reflects a commitment to practical usability and horological refinement, even in a watch positioned within the accessible luxury segment.
Market Position and Final Assessment
The introduction of the two-tone Deep Raider Day Date positions Favre Leuba within a competitive segment of the watch market. Priced at approximately €2,450 / US$2,700 / £2,100 / CHF 2,100, it faces competition from numerous brands offering watches with comparable specifications and aesthetics. However, Favre Leuba aims to differentiate itself by offering a timepiece with a distinct historical lineage and a less mainstream brand recognition, appealing to consumers seeking something beyond the usual suspects.
The brand’s intention with the two-tone Deep Raider Day Date is not to introduce a revolutionary concept but rather to offer a highly recognizable and aspirational look at a more attainable price point than a solid gold equivalent. The watch successfully delivers on this promise, providing a tangible sense of luxury and quality that aligns with expectations for an "affordable luxury" watch.
In terms of aesthetic preference, the reviewer found the black-dial version to be particularly appealing. The combination of gold accents with a deep black dial creates a sophisticated and versatile look. While the smoky dials on other variants offer a different aesthetic, the reviewer expressed a personal preference for the more classic presentation. When choosing between the green and blue dials, a recommendation was made for the blue variant, citing the classic and harmonious combination of steel, yellow gold, and blue, even though this specific configuration was not available for direct review.
Ultimately, the Favre Leuba Deep Raider Day Date Two-Tone Edition is presented as a well-executed timepiece that successfully merges sporty functionality with a touch of everyday elegance. It offers a compelling option for individuals who value historical brand pedigree, practical complications, and a distinctive aesthetic that can elevate daily wear without breaking the bank. The watch stands as a testament to Favre Leuba’s strategy of offering watches with an aspirational appeal, grounded in a rich heritage and modern engineering.
Watch Specifications
- Model: Deep Raider Day Date
- Reference: 00.20312.110.01.210 (black), 00.20312.110.03.210 (green), 00.20312.110.02.210 (blue)
- Dial: Black, green, or blue (not pictured) sunburst fumé, two-part sandwich construction with recessed elongated indexes, gold-treated elements, day/date display at 3 o’clock, blue-glowing Super-LumiNova C1 X1 on indexes and hands.
- Case Material: 316L stainless steel with brushed and polished finishes, bezel and crown with yellow gold PVD treatment, black, green, or blue ceramic bezel insert.
- Case Dimensions: 40mm (diameter) × 48.2mm (lug-to-lug) × 12.5mm (thickness).
- Crystal: Double-domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
- Case Back: 316L stainless steel, screw-in, chemically engraved with hourglass emblem and wave pattern.
- Movement: FLD05 (Sellita SW220-1): automatic with manual winding and hacking seconds, 28,800vph (4Hz) frequency, 38-hour power reserve, 26 jewels.
- Water Resistance: 300 meters (30 ATM).
- Strap: 316L stainless steel three-row bracelet with brushed and polished finishes, yellow-gold-PVD-treated central links, and butterfly clasp.
- Functions: Time (hours, minutes, seconds), day, date, 60-minute dive bezel.
- Price: €2,450 / US$2,700 / £2,100 / CHF 2,100.
