As the horological world buzzes with anticipation for Watches and Wonders, collectors and enthusiasts alike turn their attention to the secondary market for unique and historically significant timepieces. This week’s edition of Hodinkee’s "What’s Selling Where" column offers a compelling selection of watches, from elegant jump-hour complications to robust military-issued divers and intriguing calculating instruments. Each piece presents a distinct narrative, reflecting different eras of watchmaking innovation and the evolving tastes of collectors.
The market continues to show resilience, with previous featured pieces demonstrating sustained interest. The Minerva, a complex Minerva jumping hour watch, achieved a notable €4,096 (including premium) at auction, underscoring the demand for vintage complications with unique mechanical features. Conversely, the Omega 2699 remains available, indicating a potential buying opportunity for those interested in its particular appeal. The Certina regatta also found a buyer, selling for €3,500, highlighting the continued interest in specialized sports chronographs.
A Curated Selection of Notable Timepieces
This week’s spotlight falls on several exceptional watches, each with its own story and appeal. From the sophisticated design of Chaumet to the rugged functionality of Doxa and the historical significance of Blancpain and Breguet, the offerings represent a diverse spectrum of horological craftsmanship.
The Elegant Allure of Chaumet
Chaumet, a Maison with a storied history dating back to 1780, often garners recognition for its exquisite jewelry, particularly its tiaras that adorned royalty, including Emperor Napoleon and Empress Joséphine Bonaparte. However, its horological contributions, though perhaps less widely publicized in contemporary times, are equally significant. Chaumet’s acquisition of Breguet in the 1970s and its subsequent integration into the LVMH group in 1999 positioned it within a powerful luxury conglomerate, yet its independent watchmaking heritage remains a compelling aspect for collectors.
The 18k yellow-gold Chaumet jump-hour watch featured this week is a testament to this less-explored facet of the Maison. Its 35mm case, characterized by hidden lugs and a crown reminiscent of other prominent French brands, exudes a refined elegance. While the strap may not be original, the presence of an 18k gold buckle adds to its desirability. The case itself appears to be in remarkably good condition, with crisp engravings on the caseback and minimal signs of wear visible even under close scrutiny. The listing notes potential ambiguity regarding marks on the hour and minute windows, which could be on the crystal or the discs beneath. As of this report, bidding had reached $5,500, with the watch slated for auction by Heritage Auctions on April 24th. This piece offers a unique opportunity to acquire a sophisticated complication from a historic French house, appealing to those who appreciate horological artistry beyond mainstream recognition.
The Legendary Doxa Sub 300T
The dive watch genre has seen a significant surge in collector interest, with many enthusiasts navigating through various iconic models. Doxa, while not always the first name that comes to mind in the "who invented the dive watch" debate, holds a crucial place in the evolution of the dive watch. The Doxa 300, in particular, is credited with fundamentally reshaping the visual identity of dive watches and was the first to feature a decompression bezel, a critical innovation for saturation divers.
The Doxa by Synchron Sub 300T Professional Diver’s Watch presented here is described as an honest, albeit well-used, example of this legendary timepiece. It hails from the Synchron era, a period when Doxa continued its legacy. The watch exhibits expected signs of wear, including scuffs on the flat mineral crystal and aged lume, consistent with its age and intended purpose. The bezel numerals, once painted, show significant wear. Despite these cosmetic imperfections, the watch is recognized as an authentic representation of a classic diver. Doxa 300Ts are known for their surprisingly comfortable wearability, offering a substantial wrist presence without being overly cumbersome for a purpose-built dive instrument. The auction begins with a minimum bid of €1,200 and will conclude on April 18th. This Doxa Sub 300T appeals to collectors who value historical significance, functional design, and the authentic patina of a well-traveled vintage watch.
The Classic Omega Seamaster 2757
Vintage Omega Seamaster dress watches hold a special place in the hearts of many collectors, often marking an entry point into the world of vintage watch appreciation. The allure lies in their elegant designs, reliable movements, and the subtle nuances that differentiate various references. The Omega Seamaster 2757, circa 1954, exemplifies this appeal.
This particular example is presented as a well-cared-for watch. While the original clover crown has been replaced and the beads-of-rice bracelet is a later Omega-signed addition (the watch’s 14 million serial number dates it to 1954), the core appeal of the watch lies in its stunning black dial. The dial itself looks excellent, showcasing the enduring beauty of a well-preserved vintage aesthetic. Powering this Seamaster is a bumper movement, which, while less efficient and robust than later full-rotor automatics, contributes to the watch’s historical character. The case is noted for its "beefy-lug" style, a celebrated design element also found in references like the 2846/2848. The bevels on the lugs suggest that this case may have remained unpolished, a desirable trait for collectors seeking originality. The absence of bids at the time of reporting, with the watch set to sell on April 22nd, presents a potential opportunity for discerning collectors to acquire a beautifully preserved vintage Seamaster.
The Breguet Type XX with Automotive Provenance
The Breguet Type XX is a legendary pilot’s watch with a rich military history, particularly its service with the French Air Force. The example featured in this week’s selection carries a unique provenance, having been sold by Breguet to ESSO STANDARD on November 21, 1957, for 44,100 French Francs. ESSO STANDARD, a sponsor of car rallies, presented such watches to winners between 1955 and 1963.
This specific watch, No. 3067, was gifted to the father of the current owner, who participated in the XXVIII Monte Carlo Rally in 1959. Notably, in that same year, Citroën achieved its first victory in the Rally with driver Coltelloni, who received watch No. 3065, a piece now housed in the Breguet Museum. The watch itself presents a duality: historically significant due to its Esso connection and the rally participation, yet exhibiting condition issues that temper its collectibility. The hands appear to have been replaced, and the dial shows damage near the minute track at 3 o’clock and above 8.
The auction house describes the watch as a "Rorschach watch," a piece that evokes strong reactions. While the Breguet Type XX model is deservedly legendary, the condition of this particular example might deter some collectors. However, for those with a particular interest in automotive ephemera and a willingness to undertake restoration or accept its current state, this watch offers a unique narrative. It is scheduled to sell on April 16th with an estimate of €6,000 to €8,000. The same auction also features a noteworthy Movado triple-date calendar with exceptionally sculpted lugs.
The Juvenia Arithmo: A Calculating Marvel
The slide rule complication, once a vital tool for engineers and scientists, now occupies a niche space in watchmaking, appealing to those who appreciate mechanical ingenuity and historical context. Juvenia, a Swiss brand with a reputation for design-forward watches and a specialization in "computing" timepieces, offers a compelling example with the Arithmo. This watch is considered the first "computing" calculator watch, predating many others in its category.
The Juvenia Arithmo presented by Fab Suisse, listed with an error claiming it’s a Rolex with gold components, is described as a steel watch with a working bidirectional slide-rule bezel. The listing’s inaccuracies highlight the importance of thorough due diligence when acquiring watches, especially from less specialized sources. Despite potential misrepresentations in the listing, the watch itself appears to be in good condition, with minor marks on the dial, bright hands, and a sharp case, suggesting it may have been used primarily for its intended purpose in less demanding environments. The inclusion of its original instruction booklet and buckle, though not pictured, adds to its value. Priced at $7,685, it represents a significant investment for a rare calculating watch, appealing to collectors fascinated by the intersection of horology and early computing.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 3H "Bund"
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is an icon of dive watch history, and the 3H "Bund" variant holds particular significance due to its military issuance. While the rarity of this specific model is often overstated, its unique history and robust construction make it highly desirable. The example offered is exceptional not only for its condition but also for its completeness.
This particular watch is described as being as close to a "full set" as one could hope for. The listing includes images of a stack of paperwork and the original numbers-matching box, indicating that the watch was issued to a member of the West German Bundeswehr Kampfschwimmers, elite combat swimmers. These watches were developed by Blancpain specifically for this branch of the German military. The condition of this example is remarkable, with good lume (despite some cracks), a sharp case, and an intact bezel. Many issued watches of this era suffered from harsh use, destruction, or unprofessional reluming, making well-preserved examples like this exceptionally rare. With an opening bid of €9,000 and no bids yet, this Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 3H "Bund" represents an extraordinary opportunity to acquire a piece of military horological history in near-pristine condition, a "mythical creature" in the watch collecting world.
Buyer Beware: The Omega Speedmaster Ultraman
The esoteric and specialized variants of the classic Omega Speedmaster have always held a powerful allure for collectors. Among these, the "Ultraman" reference is particularly sought after for its unique design elements, including a distinctive, longer central chronograph hand compared to standard Speedmasters.
The Omega Speedmaster Ultraman featured in this week’s "Buyer Beware" segment initially generated excitement due to its promising appearance. However, subsequent additional pictures posted by the auction house revealed significant condition issues. The presence of rust, as depicted in the images, is cause for serious concern and suggests the watch would likely require extensive work, potentially involving donor parts from other cal. 321 movements. This situation underscores the critical importance of detailed inspection and expert assessment, especially for rare and complex watches. While typically "Buyer Beware" watches are flagged for subtler issues like redials or incorrect reluming, this example presents a more immediate and stark problem: severe corrosion. This serves as a potent reminder for collectors to exercise extreme caution and seek professional advice when evaluating watches with potential structural integrity concerns.
