The world of haute horlogerie, often perceived as a realm of hushed reverence for tradition and mechanical mastery, is also a dynamic ecosystem where innovation and personal philosophy intertwine. The "Twelve on Time" series, hosted by Monochrome Watches, offers a rare glimpse into the minds of industry leaders, inviting them to articulate their personal connections with time, creativity, and the intricate craft of watchmaking. This installment features Yvan Arpa, the visionary founder of the avant-garde independent brand ArtyA, renowned for its bold designs and unconventional approach to watchmaking. Through a curated set of twelve probing questions, Arpa peels back the layers of his professional persona, revealing a deep-seated appreciation for the historical roots of timekeeping, a fervent commitment to pushing creative boundaries, and a profound understanding of the emotional resonance that a timepiece can evoke.
A Journey from Ancient Sundials to Modern Marvels
Arpa’s perspective on watchmaking is fundamentally shaped by its origins. When asked about the watch that most profoundly altered his perception of the craft, his answer transcends the confines of modern mechanical marvels, pointing instead to the humble Roman sundial. This choice is not merely an acknowledgement of the earliest form of timekeeping but a philosophical anchor. "It is the very first watch, the origin of everything we do," Arpa explains. He highlights the significant detail that these ancient instruments were more than just functional devices; they were often adorned with philosophical inscriptions. The motto, "Vulnerant omnes, ultima necat" – "All hours wound, the last one kills" – encapsulates a profound truth about the ephemeral nature of existence. For Arpa, this underscores a core tenet of his watchmaking philosophy: a timepiece must always convey more than just the mere passage of minutes and hours. It must serve as a potent reminder of life’s preciousness and the imperative to live each moment with intention. This foundational understanding has guided his pursuit of creating watches that are not just instruments but also vessels of meaning and emotional connection.
Innovation as the Guiding Principle
In an industry steeped in heritage, Arpa champions innovation as the paramount quality a watch can possess. He asserts that a watch must not only evoke new emotions but also present something entirely novel to the world. "If I repeat what people did before me, it is not interesting," he states with conviction. This drive for originality stems from a desire to move beyond mere repetition and to actively contribute to the evolution of the industry. Arpa believes that the very foundations of watchmaking need reinvention, rather than the perpetuation of established norms. This perspective positions ArtyA as a brand at the forefront of contemporary horological exploration, consistently seeking to challenge conventions and introduce fresh concepts.
The Tourbillon: Poetry in Motion
When it comes to complications, the tourbillon stands out as Arpa’s favorite. He views this intricate mechanism not just as a feat of engineering designed to counteract the effects of gravity on the escapement but as a poetic expression of time’s passage. "To me, a tourbillon is a way to watch, from a certain distance, how time passes. It is poetry in mechanics," he muses. This romantic interpretation elevates the tourbillon beyond its technical function, aligning it with Arpa’s broader vision of watches as objects that inspire contemplation and wonder.
Challenging the Hegemony of "Big Names"
Arpa is a vocal advocate for independent watchmaking and expresses concern over the prevalent trend of consumers solely gravitating towards established luxury brands. He identifies this reliance on "big names" as an overrated trend, arguing that it leads to a neglect of the immense passion, energy, and innovation found within the independent sector. This sentiment reflects a broader discourse within the watch community, where the unique stories and artisanal approaches of smaller brands are often overshadowed by the marketing power of larger conglomerates. By encouraging collectors to explore beyond the well-trodden paths, Arpa aims to foster a more diverse and dynamic appreciation for the breadth of talent and creativity in watchmaking.
The Subtle Signatures of Craftsmanship
The meticulous attention to detail is a hallmark of true horological artistry, and Arpa identifies the escapement and its regulation as immediate indicators of a watch crafted with care. "Is it standard? Is it traditional? That is one easy way to see the hand of the watchmaker," he observes. This focus on the minutiae of the movement speaks to a deep respect for the technical prowess and dedication required to achieve exceptional finishing and precision.
Navigating the Crucible of the Quartz Crisis
The history of watchmaking is punctuated by pivotal moments that have reshaped its trajectory. Arpa unequivocally points to the quartz crisis of the 1970s as the most significant event that fundamentally shaped watchmaking as it is known today. This period of seismic disruption, which saw the rise of affordable and accurate quartz-powered watches, forced the traditional mechanical watch industry to confront its own relevance and to re-evaluate its core values. For Arpa, this era redefined the role and purpose of mechanical watchmakers, compelling them to innovate and to emphasize the intrinsic value and artistry of their craft.
The Imperative of Reinvention in the Modern Era
The greatest challenge facing the watch industry today, according to Arpa, is the necessity of reinvention. He draws a parallel with industries that have become niche, such as the hat industry, warning against a similar fate for watchmaking. To remain relevant and engaging, the industry must offer more than just a functional display of time. It must provide a "spectacle, a show, engineering at your wrist." This requires imbuing watches with an emotional quotient, a sense of wonder, and a tangible connection to the passion and dedication behind their creation. This challenge resonates with the ongoing evolution of luxury goods, where experiential value and storytelling are increasingly important to consumers.
Childlike Wonder as a Wellspring of Inspiration
Arpa’s creative process is deeply rooted in maintaining a sense of childlike wonder. He finds inspiration in the everyday, from the delicate intricacies of a flower to the grandeur of architecture. "Keeping a child’s mind is the real source of inspiration," he states. This philosophy underscores his belief that true creativity flourishes when one remains open to marveling at the world, unburdened by cynicism or preconception. This approach allows him to approach watchmaking with a fresh perspective, constantly seeking new forms of beauty and ingenuity.
The Unborn Creations: A Muse for the Future
When asked about the watch he wishes he had created, Arpa’s answer is characteristically forward-looking. He expresses a desire to have created the watches he has yet to conceive. These "unborn creations" are a constant source of motivation, driving his nocturnal thoughts and inspiring him to devise solutions for their realization. This reveals a creator perpetually in motion, driven by the pursuit of future horological achievements.
A Practical Twist: The Connected Watch
In a surprising but telling reveal, Arpa admits to wearing a connected watch when "nobody is watching," specifically when boxing with friends. This is a nod to his past role as head of design for the Samsung Gear S3, demonstrating an appreciation for the technological advancements and practical applications of modern smartwatches, even as his professional passion lies in mechanical horology.
The Future Through the Eyes of His Children
Arpa attributes a significant shaping influence on his view of watchmaking to his children. He sees their perspective as representing the future, offering invaluable insights into how younger generations perceive and reinterpret the craft. "They are thirty or forty years younger than me, so what they see, what they feel, and how they reinterpret watchmaking is fantastic," he shares. This intergenerational dialogue highlights the evolving landscape of consumer preferences and the importance of adapting to new aesthetic sensibilities and technological integration.
Guiding the Next Generation of Collectors
For aspiring watch collectors, Arpa offers a clear directive: prioritize passion, excellence, and innovation. He strongly advises seeking direct engagement with the creators of watches, rather than relying solely on sales pitches from intermediaries. "They need to feel the passion to understand the work we put into a watch," he emphasizes. This call for authentic connection underscores Arpa’s belief that a watch is not merely a commodity but a product of dedication, artistry, and a profound personal vision, and that true appreciation stems from understanding this human element.
