In early April 2026, Kudoke unveiled striking new iterations of its Kudoke 1 and 2 models, now featuring elaborately decorated "Tremblage" dials. This significant release from the Handwerk collection showcases the brand’s commitment to reviving and reinterpreting centuries-old artisanal engraving techniques. The tremblage technique, characterized by its unique textural depth, has become a focal point for a growing number of discerning watchmakers seeking to imbue their timepieces with a distinct sense of heritage and craftsmanship.
The Art of Tremblage: A Textured Masterpiece
The defining characteristic of the tremblage technique, setting it apart from other engraving methods, lies in the burin’s creation of a uniform yet seemingly chaotic texture across the treated surface. Unlike traditional engravings that produce clearly structured imagery, from the figurative motifs of classical techniques to the precise geometric ornaments of guilloché, tremblage cultivates a tactile landscape. This effect is achieved by repeatedly traversing each section of the surface with an oscillating burin in various directions. This demanding process is both the technique’s allure and its greatest challenge; generating this seemingly modest texture requires immense skill from the engraver and a significant investment of time. Each minute facet and undulation must be meticulously crafted to achieve the desired depth and light play.
The intricate nature of tremblage means that only a select few watchmaking houses are equipped to practice this decoration. A. Lange & Söhne, a pioneer in reintroducing this technique to modern horology, utilized it on select models within its exclusive Handwerkskunst line, known for its exceptionally limited production runs. The inaugural timepiece to feature tremblage was the Richard Lange Tourbillon "Pour le Mérite" Handwerkskunst Ref. 761.050, introduced in 2011. This landmark watch, with a total of just 15 pieces produced, signaled the revival of a complex decorative art form.
A Growing Pantheon of Tremblage Artisans
Following A. Lange & Söhne’s lead, other independent watchmakers have embraced the tremblage technique, each bringing their unique interpretations. Moritz Grossmann, a neighbor to A. Lange & Söhne in the esteemed watchmaking hub of Glashütte, launched its Tremblage series in 2021. These watches feature nickel silver dials where the tremblage engraving interacts with the material to create unpredictable color shifts, a natural consequence of the patina characteristic of nickel silver. Moritz Grossmann’s commitment to this style has led to an expansion of its Tremblage line, now encompassing models such as the Backpage Tremblage, the Tourbillon Tremblage, the Tremblage Gold (including a surprising platinum variant), and the Tremblage Green. The increased visibility of these models online suggests a growing appreciation for the brand’s dedication to this artisanal craft.
The "tremblage club" has continued to expand. In 2024, Grönefeld’s sub-brand, Grönefeld Oldenzaal (Manueel One watches), introduced its own take on tremblage. This was followed in 2025 by Armin Strom with the Armin Strom "Revolution Dual Time GMT Resonance "Tremblage" watch, a highly exclusive piece reportedly limited to only five examples. The most recent addition to this esteemed group is Stefan Kudoke, who in 2026 introduced his tremblage versions of the Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 models.
Stefan Kudoke’s Ingenious Approach to Tremblage
Stefan Kudoke, known for his ability to deliver collector-grade timepieces at accessible price points, has approached the tremblage technique with characteristic ingenuity. He has strategically implemented three key elements to achieve the desired aesthetic while managing production costs and time.
Firstly, Kudoke opts for a brass plate as the dial base, rather than solid gold or German silver. This choice provides a stable and workable foundation for the intricate engraving. Secondly, the design is based on a flat plate that is subsequently electroplated and fitted with appliqués. This construction simplifies the engraving process, as areas adjacent to the appliqués do not require meticulous finishing right up to the edge; the margins of the engraved section are neatly concealed beneath the applied elements.
Finally, Kudoke utilizes a serrated burin for the engraving. This specialized tool allows for the rapid and consistent creation of the characteristic tremblage texture, significantly streamlining the time-intensive nature of traditional methods. This pragmatic yet artistic approach ensures that the maximum visual impact of the tremblage is delivered without compromising the brand’s commitment to value.
Kudoke 1 and 2 Tremblage: Distinctive Complications
In the Kudoke 1 Tremblage, the primary tremblage dial is elegantly complemented by a small seconds subdial positioned at 9 o’clock. For the Kudoke 2 Tremblage, the tremblage dial serves as a sophisticated backdrop for a day/night indicator.
The uniform, textured finish of the tremblage dials lends these watches a visual character that transcends typical decorative timepieces. The matte effect they create imparts an aesthetic that verges on the military-inspired, offering a departure from overly ornate or "sugary" decorative styles. This approach results in a design that is both austere and subtly assertive.
Kudoke offers the Kudoke 1 Tremblage in three distinct finishes: gold-plated, rhodium-plated, and black rhodium-plated dials. Each version presents a compelling visual statement. The author notes a particular affinity for the versions featuring blued hands, which introduce an additional, fittingly archaic note. This is largely attributed to the well-chosen spade-and-whip hand shapes, which, coincidentally or intentionally, first appeared in the late 18th century. John Arnold, a prominent watchmaker of that era, was among the first to regularly employ such hands in the 1770s.
Furthermore, the distinctive double-ended hour hand on the Kudoke 1, designed by Stefan Kudoke to evoke the infinity symbol (a horizontal figure eight), bears a striking resemblance to the double-spade hour hand found on traditional half-hunter pocket watches. This observation leads to a suggestion that a half-hunter case cover would further enhance the vintage appeal of the Kudoke 1 wristwatch.
The Heart of the Matter: Kudoke’s Kaliber 1 Movement
When encountering a timepiece from an independent, creative brand, a natural inclination is to examine the movement. The Kudoke Handwerk collection is distinguished by its proprietary Kaliber 1 movement, a caliber that eschews common industrial movements like the ETA 2892, Sellita SW200/300, or Unitas 6497/6498. These industry standards, while reliable, often lack the unique character that collectors seek from independent watchmakers. Kaliber 1, on the other hand, represents a deliberate choice to equip watches with a wholly specialized and distinctive mechanical heart.
The design of Kaliber 1 is immediately recognizable as unique, a testament to Stefan Kudoke’s vision. He himself acknowledges that the movement’s origins can be traced back to an antique English pocket watch caliber from the 19th century that he acquired. This specific movement design style emerged in the latter part of the 18th century, during which time English watchmakers like John Arnold and Thomas Earnshaw began to move away from the elaborate Baroque balance cocks. They adopted a more restrained aesthetic, influenced by the burgeoning Industrial Revolution, favoring symmetrically positioned, simply shaped, stepped trapezoidal balance cocks.
The central balance cock of Kudoke’s Kaliber 1 movement, elevated slightly above the symmetrical backplate and flanked by the crown wheel and ratchet wheel, is a striking feature. Its origins are not immediately obvious, and uncovering the unusual history of this caliber requires some dedicated research.
The 7750’s Enduring Legacy: A Foundation for Independent Innovation
The story behind Kaliber 1 is intrinsically linked to a challenge faced by many independent watchmakers in the early 2000s. Following Nicolas Hayek Sr.’s 2002 strategy for Swatch Group, which involved ceasing the supply of ébauches (unfinished movements) to external companies, independent watchmakers sought alternative solutions. Austrian watchmaker Richard Habring, who had gained renown for adapting the robust ETA/Valjoux 7750 chronograph caliber for various complications, decided to develop his own caliber. This initiative was feasible because the intellectual property rights for the 7750, originally developed in 1972, had long expired.
The technical approach involves utilizing the core kinematics of the base movement, essentially stripping the 7750 of its chronograph and self-winding mechanisms. This stripped-down foundation allows for the creation of a simpler, manual-winding caliber. In 2011, Richard Habring developed the A11 caliber, his interpretation of this fundamental part of the 7750.
Richard Habring was not alone in this endeavor. Naoya Hida, a Japanese watchmaker who founded his eponymous brand in 2018, also relies on the stripped-down 7750 as the basis for his collection’s movements. Around the same time, in 2018, Stefan Kudoke began collaborating with Richard Habring, adapting the A11 caliber to his own design, featuring a symmetrical layout and a central balance cock, ultimately leading to the development of Kaliber 1.
The Strategic Value of the "Gold Remnant"
The approach taken by Habring, Hida, and Kudoke to leverage the foundational architecture of the Valjoux 7750 can be viewed as a pragmatic and intelligent strategy in contemporary independent watchmaking. By the early 1970s, Swiss watchmaking had perfected the art of producing simple, manual-winding calibers with minimal functionality – typically two or three hands, with a small seconds subdial offering little kinematic complexity.
It is worth noting that in the early 1970s, automatic winding was considered an advanced feature, and its combination with a chronograph represented a significant technical achievement. The evolution of self-winding chronographs is exemplified by the fact that the first automatic Rolex Daytona was introduced in 1988, a full 16 years after the Valjoux 7750’s debut.
Panerai also utilized a stripped-down version of the 7750. Soprod reportedly adapted the 7750 to create its three-hand OP III self-winding caliber in the late 1990s. Panerai’s rationale for employing this caliber, particularly in its early to mid-Richemont era, was its inherent characteristic: a small seconds subdial at the 9 o’clock position. This configuration allowed Panerai to recreate a rugged, military-inspired aesthetic, reminiscent of the Egiziano models from 1956 featuring the Angelus cal. SF240 movement, which also had a small seconds at 9 o’clock. This choice supported the brand’s narrative of rugged military heritage.
Kudoke’s Distinctive Style in Decorative Horology
Among the relatively limited field of watches featuring tremblage finishing, Kudoke timepieces stand out for their uniquely distinctive style. Stefan Kudoke offers a personal vision of decorative watches that avoids overwhelming ornamentation, differentiating his work from many contemporary pieces in this genre. His approach emphasizes a refined balance between artistic expression and horological substance.
The Kudoke 2 Tremblage models, available in three distinct dial finishes (gold-plated, rhodium-plated, and black rhodium-plated), showcase the signature day/night indicator against the subtle textured backdrop of the tremblage. This interplay between the intricate dial decoration and the functional complication highlights Kudoke’s ability to blend artisanal techniques with practical watchmaking.
The recent introduction of these tremblage-decorated models by Kudoke signifies a continued appreciation for traditional métiers d’art within the independent watchmaking sector. By skillfully integrating these ancient techniques with modern design and accessible pricing, Stefan Kudoke reinforces his position as a significant voice in contemporary haute horlogerie. The enduring appeal of the tremblage technique, preserved and reimagined by artisans like Kudoke, ensures its place in the annals of fine watchmaking.
