Moritz Grossmann, a name synonymous with the pioneering spirit of 19th-century German watchmaking, continues to uphold its legacy as an independent haute horlogerie manufacture based in Glashütte. Renowned for its low-volume, meticulously hand-finished timepieces, the brand is commemorating the bicentennial of its founder’s birth with the introduction of two contemporary, dark-themed iterations of its elegant Benu Power Reserve watch. These new releases artfully blend historical reverence with modern design sensibilities, offering collectors a compelling narrative of horological evolution.
The Benu collection holds a significant place in the brand’s recent history, marking the revival of Moritz Grossmann in 2010. Its inaugural model was powered by the in-house manual-winding calibre 100.0, which was subsequently refined into the calibre 100.2, powering the Power Reserve variant introduced in 2013. A distinctive feature of the Benu line is its unique linear power reserve indicator, positioned discreetly at the 12 o’clock position, diverging from the more traditional fan-shaped arcs often seen in other watchmaking designs. This linear display offers a clear, two-tone visual representation of the remaining power reserve, a testament to Grossmann’s commitment to functional elegance.
The latest duo of Benu Power Reserve watches builds upon the brand’s recent design explorations. While retaining the core technical specifications of the established calibre 100.2, these new models integrate the robust, contemporary appeal of steel and black-coated steel cases, reminiscent of the 12th-anniversary editions. Furthermore, they adopt the dynamic, textured finishes, refined layout, and distinctive hands first showcased in the 2025 sector-style models. This fusion of elements creates a visually arresting and technically sophisticated timepiece that honors the brand’s heritage while embracing modern aesthetics.
A Harmonious Blend of Case and Dial Design
Both new references share the distinguished 41mm, three-part Benu case, measuring a refined 11.65mm in height and featuring elegantly tapering lugs. The choice of materials for the case is a key differentiator. One variant is presented in brushed matte stainless steel, exuding a contemporary and subtly sporty character. The second model features a dark grey DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating over stainless steel, providing a sleek, stealthy, and highly durable finish. Both case options are framed by a slim, unobtrusive bezel, allowing the intricate dial to take center stage.
The dial itself is a masterclass in sophisticated design, presented in a deep, dark grey sector-style configuration. This multi-layered approach employs varied textures and heights to create visual depth and enhance legibility. The outermost section of the dial features a smooth peripheral minutes track, elegantly marked with crisp white Arabic numerals. This track encircles a wider chapter ring, which is adorned with intricate concentric circular grooves, lending a subtle shimmer and a sense of refinement. Applied Arabic numerals are strategically placed at the 12, 2, 4, 8, and 10 o’clock positions, complemented by discreet indices.
The heart of the dial is a snailed chapter ring that elegantly frames the matte, grained central area. It is within this central zone that the watch’s signature linear power reserve display is artfully integrated, positioned precisely between the 12 o’clock marker and the central axis of the hands. This placement ensures that the power reserve indication is always readily visible without disrupting the overall balance of the dial.
Innovative Power Reserve and Subtle Complications
The power reserve indicator itself is a notable design element. Displayed within an elongated trapezoid window, it features a two-tone system of dark grey and white bars, reflecting the watch’s darker aesthetic. When the movement is fully wound, a white bar is prominently displayed. As the power reserve gradually depletes over its 42-hour duration, the white bar recedes, and the dark grey bar becomes more visible, offering a clear and intuitive indication of the remaining energy.
Further enriching the dial’s composition is a recessed and smooth sub-dial for the small seconds, artfully integrated into the grained central area. This subtle complication adds another layer of functional detail without overwhelming the dial’s sophisticated layout. The contrast between the matte, textured surfaces and the smooth, recessed elements creates a visually dynamic interplay, characteristic of Moritz Grossmann’s meticulous attention to detail.
Exquisite Hands and the Art of Finishing
A defining characteristic of these sector dial models, and indeed many Moritz Grossmann timepieces, is the exceptional quality of the manually crafted hands. In these Benu Power Reserve watches, the hour, minute, and small seconds hands are slightly wider, more domed, and rounder than those found on other Benu Power Reserve models. They are meticulously polished and bevelled, showcasing their exquisite craftsmanship. A particularly refined detail is their wafer-thin tips, which contribute to their delicate yet highly legible appearance. The minute counterweight is designed as a closed rhomboid, a subtle yet elegant flourish that underscores the brand’s commitment to artisanal finishing.
The Ingenious Calibre 100.2: A Glimpse into Horological Excellence
The horological heart beating within these watches is the in-house manual-winding calibre 100.2. This movement is a testament to the enduring traditions of Glashütte watchmaking, built upon the robust foundation of the calibre 100.1 but enhanced with an additional differential gear specifically engineered to drive the linear power reserve display.
Visible through the sapphire exhibition caseback, the calibre 100.2 showcases the signature Glashütte 2/3 plate construction, adorned with the characteristic Glashütte ribbing. This decorative technique, along with the finely finished bridges and meticulously chamfered edges, highlights the movement’s artisanal construction. The balance cock, which secures the slow-beating 18,000 vibrations per hour (vph) frequency of the Grossmann balance wheel, is a true piece of art, featuring intricate hand-engraving. This slow beat rate contributes to the exceptional precision and robustness of the movement, a hallmark of Moritz Grossmann timepieces.
The movement also incorporates the brand’s patented winding and pusher system. This ingenious mechanism, integrated with the crown, is designed to prevent dust from entering the case when the crown is pulled out for setting the time. A pusher, conveniently located at the 4 o’clock position, allows for the resetting of the watch, further enhancing its user-friendliness and technical sophistication.
A Legacy of Innovation and a Nod to the Founder
The bicentennial of Moritz Grossmann’s birth serves as a poignant reminder of his foundational role in shaping the landscape of German watchmaking. Born in Dresden in 1826, Grossmann was a visionary who established his own manufactory in Glashütte in 1865. He was a proponent of precision, innovation, and the highest standards of craftsmanship. His contributions included pioneering advancements in tooling and measurement techniques, which significantly elevated the quality and accuracy of watches produced in the region. The revival of his name and brand in 2010 is a deliberate act of preserving and perpetuating this rich horological heritage. These new Benu Power Reserve models, with their contemporary design and sophisticated mechanics, represent a fitting tribute to the enduring spirit of their namesake.
Limited Editions and Exclusive Appeal
These two new Benu Power Reserve models are presented on supple black kudu leather straps, chosen for their comfort and refined aesthetic. Each variant is strictly limited to a production run of just 18 pieces worldwide, underscoring their exclusivity and desirability among collectors. This limited availability ensures that each timepiece is a rare and special acquisition, reflecting the low-volume, high-craftsmanship philosophy of Moritz Grossmann.
The retail price for both the stainless steel and the dark grey DLC-coated steel versions is EUR 40,800 (excluding taxes). This pricing reflects the considerable investment in hand-finishing, in-house movement development, and the overall meticulous craftsmanship that goes into every Moritz Grossmann watch.
Conclusion
The introduction of these two dark-themed Benu Power Reserve watches marks another significant chapter in the ongoing story of Moritz Grossmann. By skillfully blending modern design elements with the brand’s core values of precision, elegance, and artisanal excellence, these timepieces offer a compelling proposition for discerning watch enthusiasts. They are not merely instruments for telling time but rather wearable pieces of art, carrying forward the legacy of a watchmaking visionary and demonstrating the enduring appeal of traditional craftsmanship in the 21st century. The limited production ensures their status as coveted collector’s items, embodying the spirit of Glashütte’s finest horological creations.
Technical Specifications
Case:
- 41mm diameter x 11.65mm height
- Brushed matte stainless steel or dark grey DLC-coated stainless steel
- Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
- Sapphire exhibition caseback
- Unique pull-out and resetting crown with movement restart pusher at 4 o’clock
Dial:
- Anthracite sector-style dial
- Linear dark grey and white power reserve aperture
- Smooth peripheral minutes track with white printed numerals
- Snailed chapter ring with applied Arabic numerals and indices
- Grained central area
- Recessed smooth small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock
- Manually-crafted tempered steel hour, minute, and small seconds hands
Movement:
- Calibre 100.2, in-house manual-winding
- 36.4mm diameter x 5.4mm thickness
- 227 components, 26 jewels, 3 screwed gold chatons
- 18,000vph (2.5Hz)
- 42-hour power reserve
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds (hacking), linear power reserve indicator
- Features: Patented Grossmann winder with pusher, Grossmann balance
Strap:
- Black kudu leather with steel prong buckle
References:
- MG-004123 (Stainless Steel)
- MG-004124 (DLC-Coated Steel)
Availability:
- Limited to 18 pieces in each version
Price:
- EUR 40,800 (excl. taxes) for both editions.
