Toledano & Chan has established a distinctive presence within the often-conservative watchmaking industry by embracing unconventional design and a bold artistic vision. This young brand deliberately charts a course away from the predictable, prioritizing creativity and pushing the boundaries of horological aesthetics. Their latest creation, the Oshinobi, exemplifies this ethos. A singular, diamond-set timepiece, it will be offered at the prestigious TimeForArt auction hosted by Phillips in New York on December 5th, 2026. This unique auction serves as a vital fundraiser for contemporary art initiatives, making the Toledano & Chan Oshinobi a fitting centerpiece for such a philanthropic endeavor.
The TimeForArt auction is renowned for its curated selection of exclusive timepieces, each representing a unique collaboration between watch brands and the art world. This year’s event will showcase distinctive creations from a remarkable roster of 25 brands, spanning established luxury houses such as Bvlgari, Chanel, Chopard, Hermès, and Zenith – USM, alongside a compelling assembly of innovative independent marques like Baltic, Czapek, Dennison, Lebond, Ming, and Unimatic. Toledano & Chan’s inclusion alongside these esteemed names underscores their growing recognition for originality and artistic merit. The auction’s commitment to supporting contemporary art is a crucial element, having raised an impressive US$2.4 million for the Swiss Institute across its first two editions. This financial backing enables the Institute to continue its mission of fostering artistic dialogue and innovation through exhibitions, public programs, educational initiatives, and community engagement workshops in New York and beyond. The participation of brands like Toledano & Chan in such a significant charitable event highlights a growing trend of synergy between the luxury watch sector and the fine arts, demonstrating a shared commitment to cultural enrichment and preservation.
The Oshinobi: A Study in Deception and Dazzling Revelation
The Toledano & Chan Oshinobi, presented as the first brand to reveal its contribution to the TimeForArt auction, is a testament to the duo’s ingenious design philosophy. Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan have crafted what initially appears to be a robust, sandblasted titanium bracelet, embodying a brutalist aesthetic. However, the true brilliance of the Oshinobi lies in its ingenious concealment. The name itself, "Oshinobi" (忍び), is derived from the Japanese term for a high-ranking individual traveling incognito, a fitting metaphor for the watch’s deceptive nature. Beneath a subtly integrated small cover, which slides discreetly to the left, lies a breathtaking dial adorned with two carats of natural, snow-set diamonds. This hidden spectacle transforms the utilitarian bracelet into a dazzling display of horological artistry and precious gems.
This clever design serves as the ultimate personal luxury statement, offering a level of discretion where only the wearer is privy to its opulent secret. In an era where overt displays of wealth can be polarizing, the Oshinobi offers a sophisticated alternative. It is a diamond-set watch that can be safely worn in public, its true magnificence concealed until the wearer chooses to reveal it. The watch features a compact 21mm case, meticulously crafted from Grade 5 sandblasted titanium, further enhancing its understated yet robust exterior. The choice of titanium not only contributes to its lightweight comfort but also its modern, industrial appeal, creating a stark contrast with the hidden brilliance within.
The intricate mechanism powering the Oshinobi is a manual-winding Swiss LTM (Le Temps Manufacture) caliber, discreetly housed behind the titanium case back. This ensures a connection to traditional watchmaking craftsmanship, a subtle nod to the heritage of timekeeping that underpins the brand’s avant-garde designs. The case back itself bears a special engraving commemorating the TimeForArt event, serving as a constant reminder of the watch’s philanthropic purpose and its unique provenance. This detail adds a layer of historical significance to the timepiece, marking it as an artifact of a specific moment in time and a contribution to a worthy cause.
Geode Inspiration: The Genesis of the Diamond Dial
The inspiration behind the Oshinobi’s extraordinary diamond-set dial is as poetic as it is innovative. Toledano and Chan drew parallels with geodes, those unassuming, hollow rocks that, when cracked open, reveal astonishing internal formations of crystals. This natural phenomenon served as the muse for the watch’s diamond setting, which mimics the organic, scattered beauty of crystals within a geode. Approximately 387 natural diamonds of varying sizes have been meticulously employed to create this captivating dial. The design team’s deliberate intention was to contrast the watch’s angular, brutalist exterior with the organic, almost geological beauty of its interior.
To further enhance this illusion of a natural formation, the dial is concave. This curvature adds an extraordinary sense of depth, transforming the dial from a mere surface into a miniature, otherworldly landscape. It feels less like a manufactured watch component and more like a discovery, a piece of natural artistry captured within the confines of a timepiece. The snow-setting technique, where diamonds of different sizes are closely packed together to create a seamless, sparkling surface, further amplifies the effect, evoking the dazzling brilliance of freshly fallen snow or the clustered facets of a mineral deposit. This approach elevates the Oshinobi beyond a mere luxury watch; it becomes a wearable piece of art, a testament to nature’s inherent beauty and the ingenuity of human craftsmanship.
A Glimpse into the Future: Production Model to Follow
The success and unique appeal of the one-off Oshinobi at the TimeForArt auction are anticipated to be substantial, given its innovative design and charitable objective. The proceeds generated will directly support the Swiss Institute’s critical work in advancing contemporary art. This initiative represents more than just a fundraising effort; it is a collaborative endeavor that bridges the worlds of luxury craftsmanship and artistic patronage. The significant sums raised in previous years demonstrate the auction’s impact and the growing collector base that values both horological excellence and cultural contribution.
In an exciting development that underscores the brand’s commitment to innovation and its growing influence, Toledano & Chan has announced plans to release a limited-production model of the Oshinobi in 2027. This forthcoming series suggests that the core concept of the disguised luxury watch has resonated deeply within the market and promises to offer collectors another opportunity to acquire a piece of this unique design. The prospect of a production model indicates that the brand is poised for further growth and is actively exploring avenues to bring its distinctive creations to a broader audience, while maintaining the exclusivity and artistic integrity that define their work. This expansion signals a promising trajectory for Toledano & Chan, hinting at a future filled with continued boundary-pushing designs and further contributions to both the watchmaking industry and the art world. The Oshinobi, therefore, stands not only as a remarkable timepiece for a noble cause but also as a harbinger of exciting innovations yet to come from this forward-thinking brand.
