Pim Koeslag, the driving force behind Christiaan van der Klaauw, has stepped into the spotlight for the latest installment of "Twelve on Time," a unique conversation series designed to delve into the personal relationships industry leaders share with time, creativity, and the meticulous craft of watchmaking. Through a structured series of twelve probing questions, this column aims to peel back the layers of an individual’s professional persona, revealing their inner world and their perspective on the horological landscape – a domain intrinsically shaped by precision, heritage, and profound emotion. Koeslag, who has been at the helm of the esteemed Dutch watchmaking house for several years, offers a candid and insightful look into his own journey and philosophy.
The Genesis of a Horological Vision: The Planetarium’s Impact
Koeslag’s journey into the rarefied world of haute horlogerie was significantly shaped by a pivotal encounter with a specific timepiece: the Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium. Prior to his tenure at the brand, Koeslag’s focus was squarely on the intricate mechanics of traditional watchmaking, dedicating his skills to developing complex complications such as perpetual calendars and tourbillons. However, the Planetarium marked a profound shift in his understanding of the art form. "The Planetarium opened my eyes to the fact that if you combine watchmaking with science and astronomy, a completely new world of complications opens up, some more poetic and some very functional," Koeslag explains. This realization broadened his horizons, demonstrating that timekeeping could transcend mere mechanical prowess to become a poetic dialogue with the cosmos. This perspective is crucial, as Christiaan van der Klaauw itself has carved a niche by specializing in astronomical complications, a testament to Koeslag’s early epiphany.
Valuing Ingenuity: Creativity as the Ultimate Horological Virtue
When asked about the quality he values most in a watch, Koeslag’s answer is unequivocal: creativity. This doesn’t solely refer to technical ingenuity; it encompasses aesthetic innovation as well. "Doing the same thing as others does not feel very interesting to me," he states, highlighting a deep-seated aversion to mere replication. While flawless execution is a non-negotiable prerequisite, it is the spark of originality that truly captivates him. This philosophy is deeply embedded in the Christiaan van der Klaauw ethos, where each creation seeks to push the boundaries of what is possible in astronomical watchmaking, offering unique interpretations of celestial mechanics.
Favorite Complications: A Glimpse into the Future and the Past
Koeslag’s favorite complication remains a work in progress, a secret held close to his chest, hinting at future innovations from his atelier. However, he readily identifies his current favorite existing complication: the Christiaan van der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric. This remarkable timepiece showcases a full-dial solar system, with all eight planets meticulously orbiting the sun. The sheer mechanical poetry and astronomical accuracy of this creation underscore Koeslag’s passion for blending scientific accuracy with artistic expression. Following closely behind this celestial marvel is the enchanting world of chiming watches, such as the minute repeater or grand sonnerie, which he describes as "just magical." These complications, with their ability to translate the passage of time into auditory melodies, represent a different, yet equally profound, dimension of horological artistry.
Addressing Modern Trends: The Overpriced Three-Hander
In a candid assessment of contemporary watchmaking, Koeslag identifies "overpriced 3-hand watches" as the most overrated trend. While acknowledging that these timepieces are often "well-finished," he expresses a sentiment that resonates with many observers of the current market: "I have the feeling that every week there is a new brand popping up." This proliferation of often highly-priced, yet functionally basic, timepieces raises questions about value proposition and market saturation. The implication is a critique of brands that may capitalize on perceived exclusivity or heritage without offering truly innovative or compelling horological content, particularly when juxtaposed with the intricate and often astronomically-priced creations from specialist brands like Christiaan van der Klaauw.
The Subtle Art of Care: Dial Finishing as a Tell-Tale Sign
The discerning eye can often detect the dedication and craftsmanship invested in a watch through its finer details. For Koeslag, the finishing of the dial is the immediate indicator of a watch made with care. This seemingly simple element, often the first point of contact for a wearer, can reveal an immense amount about the meticulousness of the watchmaker. It speaks to a commitment to perfection that extends to every surface, every applied marker, and every nuanced texture.
The Quartz Crisis: A Catalyst for Appreciation
Koeslag pinpoints the quartz crisis of the 1970s as the most fundamental moment that shaped watchmaking into the art form it is recognized as today. The seismic shift brought about by the advent of accurate and affordable quartz movements forced the mechanical watch industry to re-evaluate its purpose. "It made people realise that watchmaking is an art rather than a utensil," Koeslag reflects. This period, which saw many traditional Swiss watchmakers teeter on the brink of collapse, ultimately spurred a renaissance of mechanical watchmaking, emphasizing heritage, craftsmanship, and mechanical artistry as distinct value propositions. This historical context is vital for understanding the current appreciation for haute horlogerie, where mechanical complexity and artisanal skill are celebrated.
Navigating a Shifting Landscape: The Challenge of Retail and Distribution
The watch industry, like many others, is undergoing a significant transformation in its retail and distribution models. Koeslag identifies this evolution as one of the greatest challenges facing the sector today. The rise of direct-to-consumer (DTC) sales, predominantly through social media channels, is reshaping how brands interact with their clientele. "I still believe every market needs a different approach to interact with its consumers," Koeslag asserts, emphasizing the nuanced differences between consumer preferences in regions like Japan, America, and Europe. He expresses hope that traditional retail and distribution networks can adapt and find their place within this new paradigm, ensuring a diverse and accessible marketplace for horological enthusiasts. The implications of this shift are far-reaching, impacting everything from brand marketing strategies to the very nature of the watch-buying experience.
Cross-Industry Inspiration: A Symphony of Mechanics
Koeslag draws inspiration for his watchmaking endeavors from a diverse range of external sources. Mechanics found in other demanding professions, such as the automotive and medical industries, offer valuable insights into precision engineering and innovative design. However, it is astronomy that serves as a particularly potent wellspring of ideas. This deep connection to the cosmos is not merely thematic; it informs the functional and aesthetic development of Christiaan van der Klaauw’s timepieces, transforming them into miniature observatories for the wrist.
A Dream of Design: The Timeless Allure of the Royal Oak and Porsche 911
When considering a watch he wishes he had created, Koeslag’s mind immediately goes to two iconic designs: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Porsche 911. He describes the Royal Oak as "timeless," a sentiment that perfectly encapsulates its enduring appeal and its revolutionary impact on sports watch design when it was introduced in 1972. The comparison to the Porsche 911 further underscores his appreciation for designs that possess an inherent, lasting aesthetic and engineering brilliance, transcending fleeting trends and maintaining their relevance across decades. The 911, much like the Royal Oak, has undergone continuous evolution while retaining its distinctive identity, a testament to masterful design principles.
A Cherished Memento: The Franck Muller Curvex Chronograph
The watch Koeslag wears most when he believes no one is watching carries a deeply personal significance. It is a Franck Muller Curvex Chronograph, a gift from a dear friend and colleague who had a long tenure at Franck Muller and with whom Koeslag co-invented and co-designed numerous watches. This timepiece is more than just a watch; it is a poignant reminder of shared passion, late-night conversations over wine, and collaborative efforts to shape the future of watchmaking. The watch serves as a tangible link to a cherished friendship and a shared legacy, imbued with memories of intellectual camaraderie and a mutual dedication to the craft.
The Visionary Influence of Gérald Genta
Koeslag identifies Gérald Genta, the legendary designer behind iconic watches like the Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, as the personality who most profoundly shaped his view of watchmaking. He recounts a memorable dinner with Genta in Monaco, where they engaged in discussions about design and movement complications. "It inspired me to keep searching for that iconic design that, if you have the watch in your hands, you can not tell if it was designed 40 years ago or yesterday – that is the ultimate dream as a designer!" Koeslag shares. Genta’s mentorship extended beyond design philosophy; he also offered sage commercial advice. Koeslag recalls presenting a highly complicated perpetual calendar he had developed around 2008, which featured a single-crown setting for all functions. Genta, instead of merely praising the technical achievement, encouraged Koeslag to "think bigger," suggesting that selling the concept to a major brand would be the path to true success. This practical, commercially astute perspective, coupled with Genta’s visionary design sensibilities, left an indelible mark on Koeslag. He acknowledges that Genta’s advice, though perhaps initially difficult to accept, was ultimately accurate, highlighting the rare combination of artistic genius and business acumen that defined Genta’s legacy.
Advice for Aspiring Collectors: Trust Your Instincts
For younger collectors embarking on their watch-collecting journey, Koeslag offers a powerful piece of advice: "Check out your own feelings and desires before checking the wrists of your friends; uniqueness is priceless." This encourages a personal and authentic approach to collecting, prioritizing individual passion and the pursuit of distinctive pieces over conformity or the desire to emulate others. In an era where trends can be amplified through social media, Koeslag’s counsel serves as a vital reminder of the intrinsic value of personal taste and the pursuit of watches that resonate on a deeply individual level. This philosophy aligns perfectly with the ethos of Christiaan van der Klaauw, a brand that consistently offers unique and personal interpretations of horological artistry.
